THE BEST VINTAGE
OMEGA WATCHES TO COLLECT

Omega is one of the most iconic and respected watch brands in the world. Few other watchmakers can stand aside Omega in terms of horological history, stand-out design and sheer quality. Its celebrity status has been bolstered over the years by its long list of impressive achievements boosting it to superstar status.

One of Omega’s best-known accomplishments includes being the first watch worn in space to land on the moon. Omega became the official supplier to NASA in the early 60s. The Speedmaster ref. CK 2998 was the first watch to reach space when astronaut Walter Schirra wore the Speedmaster during the ‘Sigma 7’ mission in 1962.

Later on, in 1969, Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong famously wore the same model in the Apollo 11 moon landing. This alone engraved Omega in the minds of a generation.

Its commitment to accuracy has naturally lent itself to sporting timekeeping. Most famously, it has been the official timekeeper at the Olympic Games since 1932 and a long-standing sponsor of the golf European Masters. Its enthusiasm for golf has inspired many of Omega’s finest wristwatches, including the models in the Seamaster Aqua Terra “Golf” collection.

Unsurprisingly, this acclaimed heritage and luxury has drawn the attention of the rich and famous. Worn by President JFK, Elvis Presley, Cindy Crawford, George Clooney, and Daniel Craig, and the choice of James Bond since the mid-90s. Its fame, credibility and collectability are indisputable.

In 1934 Omega released the Cal T17, a very small mechanical movement. This little movement boasted a 60-hour power reserve, something that many modern-day watches still do not have. It was an exceptional innovation and these movements were used in all Omega Tanks from this period.

167,000 Omega T17s were produced powering as many watches the world over. Designed by Charles Perregaux, the “T” is in reference to the movements tonneau shape and the “17” to its width at its centre in millimetres. It’s a 15-jewel manual wind movement beating at 18,000 beats per hour. A true technical marvel for its time.

From this era the Tank 21x36mm 14 carat 1937 is a fine example of a highly collectable model from the Tank collection. The mesmerising 14-carat yellow gold dress watch has a rectangular honey and gold dial that catches the light beautifully. This wonderful dial has the addition of a perfectly proportioned subsidiary second dial at 6. All of these unique features come together perfectly to give the watch its impressive look.

The 14ct yellow gold watch case design measures 36 x 21mm and is reminiscent of the earlier Cartier Tank design. Though not officially referred to as the ‘Tank’, there is little doubt this model was produced in response to the success of the Cartier Tank model, released in 1919.

This was so called because the outline of the watch case somewhat resembles the aerial view of the WW1 military tank. Before this, all watches were round, reflecting the shape of the movement. However, during the 1920s and 1930s, rectangular case design watches became hugely fashionable, which is why the Tank is a perfect example of these early advancements.

The Constellation was once Omega’s flagship model. Launched in 1952, with its high-quality construction and luxurious design, the Constellation quickly became known as “the Swiss watch.”

The Constellation got its name from the emblem on the case back, which shows an observatory with eight stars above it. The eight stars symbolise two chronometer records and six first-place awards that Omega earned between 1933 and 1952.

One of the most distinctive features of the early Constellation watches was the distinctive faceted convex dial. It’s called a “pie-pan dial” by enthusiasts – as it looks a bit like an upside-down baking dish. The pie-pan dials are some of the most beautiful dial designs in the history of watchmaking, with 12 facets.

Over the years, Omega produced many different Constellation models, with a wide variation in case shape and dial design. A good example of a 1950s original Constellation is this Calendar 18ct Pink Gold Cal.504 from 1957. The solid gold dial is lovely. It adds the perfect amount of texture to complement the bold onyx inlaid block hour indices which are matched with the original ‘dauphine’ style hands, providing the classic smart 1950s functional aesthetic.

This example contains the Omega Calibre 504, the 17 Jewel Automatic Chronometer movement is a true classic. It was the first Omega Constellation calibre to carry the date function. It is quite rare as it was made in fairly small numbers, by far the majority of which are found in the steel, or gold Constellations.

A Calibre 504 found in an 18ct pink gold Constellation is very rare indeed. This watch represents style and elegance, and it’s hard to name a more interesting, or better quality, vintage dress watch.