RARE VINTAGE WATCHES
EVERY COLLECTOR WANTS
We’ve all read about those vintage watch auction sales that result in eye-watering six-figure sums. But what are the most rare vintage watches out there?
In this guide, we detail some of the rare vintage watches that, given the money, most of us here at Vintage Gold Watches would love to buy.
The Patek Philippe Reference 1518, £200,000 +
The Patek Philippe Reference 1518 holds a significant place in horological history as the world’s first series-produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch. Introduced in 1941, it marked a groundbreaking achievement for Patek Philippe. The watch features a perpetual calendar, indicating day, date, month, and moon phase, combined with a chronograph function, all housed within the elegant wristwatch.
Ref. 1518 was conceived and created during a pivotal era in watchmaking. It was launched in 1941, a time when Patek Philippe sought to push the boundaries of horological innovation. The visionary behind this remarkable timepiece was the then-president of Patek Philippe, Charles Stern.
The watch model boasts a timeless design with a round case, rectangular pushers, and a distinctive dial layout. Its movement, the calibre 13”’130 Q, was a marvel of watchmaking precision at the time. It was developed in collaboration with Victorin Piguet, a renowned movement manufacturer. The challenge was to integrate these intricate complications without compromising the watch’s elegance and wearability. The result was a stunning combination of functionality and aesthetics, setting a new standard in watchmaking.
The Reference 1518 was produced in limited quantities from 1941 to 1954, with only 281 pieces created in total. Its rarity and historical significance have elevated it to iconic status, making it one of the most sought-after and valuable vintage watches in the world.
Several examples of Reference 1518 have achieved multi-million-dollar sales in the market. In November 2016, a Patek Philippe Reference 1518 in steel set a new record as the most expensive wristwatch publicly sold, fetching an incredible $11,136,642 USD.
The Rolex "Paul Newman” Daytona, £100,000 +
The Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona is an iconic and highly sought-after vintage watch, renowned for its association with the legendary actor and racer, Paul Newman. Introduced in 1963, it gained fame when Paul Newman was spotted wearing one during his racing career. The watch features a distinctive dial with Art Deco-style numerals, contrasting sub-dials, and a unique “exotic” dial design.
The Rolex Daytona was initially designed as a chronograph specifically tailored for professional race car drivers. The version associated with Paul Newman emerged as a variant of the Daytona line, featuring a special dial design. Newman received his infamous Daytona as a gift from his wife, Joanne Woodward. Its popularity soared after Newman was frequently photographed wearing it, contributing to its legendary status.
These early models housed the manual-winding Rolex Calibre 722 and were typically crafted in stainless steel, with a diameter of around 37mm. One of its most recognisable features is the “exotic” dial, also known as the “Paul Newman” dial, which is characterised by its unique font, contrasting colours, and distinctive design of the sub-dials.
Meanwhile, the tachymeter bezel (allowing users to measure average speed over a specific distance) and the chronograph function (which enables users to measure elapsed time) catered to the needs of racing enthusiasts.
Due to its rarity, association with Paul Newman, and timeless design, the Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona remains one of the most collectable and valuable watches in the vintage market.
In October 2017, Phillips Auction House auctioned Paul Newman’s personal Rolex Daytona Reference 6239, commonly known as the “Paul Newman” model, achieving a final price of $17.75 million USD. This incredible sales price shows the significance of Paul Newman to the Rolex Daytona and the watch’s place in history.
1970’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak A-Series, £50,000 +
Introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak revolutionised the luxury sports watch category. Designed by Gerald Genta, the watch features a distinctive octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and an integrated bracelet, creating a sporty yet elegant aesthetic.
At the time, the Swiss watch industry was facing challenges due to the rise of quartz watches, and Audemars Piguet aimed to create a watch that would reinvigorate the market and defy traditional norms in watchmaking.
The renowned watch designer Gerald Genta brought the Royal Oak to life, drawing inspiration from traditional diving helmets, incorporating a distinctive octagonal bezel with exposed screws. The design also included an integrated stainless steel bracelet, further setting it apart from its peers.
The A Series, denoting the initial production run, holds historical significance among collectors. These watches were among the first Royal Oaks manufactured, contributing to their rarity and desirability. Crafted in stainless steel, the A Series models boast a 39mm case, and showcasing the signature Grande Tapisserie dial pattern design.
The Royal Oak Series A was groundbreaking not only for its design but also for its use of unusual materials. While luxury watches typically used precious metals, the Royal Oak Series A was crafted from stainless steel, challenging conventions and earning it the nickname “The Steel Beast.” Its launch at the Baselworld Fair in 1972 marked a turning point in the industry, establishing the luxury sports watch category.
Some of the most rare and sought-after models from the Royal Oak A Series include:
Royal Oak Reference 5402ST: This was the original Royal Oak model introduced in 1972, featuring a stainless steel case, integrated bracelet, and the iconic octagonal bezel.
Royal Oak Reference 5402SA: This model is similar to the 5402ST but features a gold-plated bezel, providing a two-tone aesthetic.
Royal Oak Reference 5402BA: This version includes a full 18-carat yellow gold construction, both for the case and bracelet, offering a luxurious appearance.
Royal Oak Reference 5402BC: Similar to the 5402BA, this model features a case and bracelet crafted from 18-carat white gold.
The A Series Royal Oak watches are powered by high-quality automatic movements, reflecting Audemars Piguet’s commitment to precision. Evolving over the years, with subsequent series introducing new features and materials, the A Series remains highly coveted among watch enthusiasts for its iconic design and craftsmanship.
Mid-century and earlier Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso £20,000 +
The Reverso was created in 1931 in response to the needs of British polo players in India who sought a watch that could withstand the rigours of the sport. César de Trey, a businessman, collaborated with Jacques-David LeCoultre to address this challenge. The result was a watch with a reversible case designed to protect the delicate watch face during polo matches.
The initial Reverso models showcased Art Deco influences, featuring clean lines, geometric shapes, and a sense of elegance characteristic of the era. Over the decades, the Reverso has seen various style adaptations, incorporating different dial designs, case materials, and complications, but the early to mid-century Reversos are revered as the rarest and most collectable.
The hallmark feature of the Reverso is its reversible case, allowing the wearer to flip the watch face to protect it or showcase a personalised engraving. Early Reverso watches were also equipped with manual-winding movements, showcasing Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in mechanical design. Some of the early models featured complications such as small seconds, date indicators, and dual time zones, adding additional functionality to the cutting-edge watch.
Certain mid-century Reverso watches were adorned with exquisite artistic elements, including enamel work, guilloché patterns, and hand-engraved designs. Making them equally as sought-after as their 30s and 40s counterparts.
Some of the most notable Reverso models produced from 1931 to 1950 include:
Reverso Grande Taille: Introduced as a larger-sized Reverso for those who prefer a bolder presence.
Reverso Duo: Known for its dual-face functionality, allowing wearers to switch between two different time zones. Each face has its own separate movement.
Reverso Classique: Represents the timeless and iconic design of the original Reverso.
Reverso Night & Day: Highlights a day and night indicator on the dial for enhanced functionality and is often adorned with a sun and moon design to distinguish between day and night.
Reverso Tribute Calendar: Incorporates a complete calendar complication, displaying day, date, month, and moon phase.
The Reverso holds historical significance, representing a blend of craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless design that has endured for nearly a century. During World War II, the British Army adopted the Reverso due to its durability and practicality, adding to its historical cache.
Early to mid-century Reverso watches are highly sought after by collectors for their historical importance and limited production numbers. Some vintage Reverso watches have achieved notable auction results, attesting to their desirability among collectors. It’s not unusual for early Reverso’s to sell for over £50,000
1950’s and early 60s Omega Speedmasters. £10,000 +
The Omega Speedmaster, introduced in 1957, holds a significant place in horological history and collectors’ hearts. Initially designed as a sport and racing chronograph, the Speedmaster aimed to meet the demands of motorsports, aviation, and other timing-related activities.
However, its destiny changed when it became the first watch to be flight-qualified by NASA for space missions due to its versatility and precision. In 1965, the Speedmaster (specifically, the CK 2998) became NASA’s official watch for space missions. Leading to the famous Speedmaster moonwalk. Buzz Aldrin wore an Omega Speedmaster (ref. ST105.012) when he took the first steps on the Moon in 1969.
Early Speedmasters housed the renowned calibre 321 movement, known for its precision and reliability. They also included a distinctive tachymeter bezel, initially intended for measuring speed; these bezels became a distinctive feature of the Speedmaster’s design.
The classic three-subdial layout for measuring elapsed time added functionality and contributed to its unique aesthetic appeal. The high-contrast dial with bold hour markers and hands ensured readability, a crucial factor for its use in various professional settings.
Stainless steel cases, black dials, and various hand designs contributed to the Speedmaster’s distinctive appearance. Beyond its technical prowess, the Speedmaster became a pop culture icon, featured in films and associated with notable personalities, adding to its fame.
The early Omega Speedmaster watches, produced in limited numbers, are highly sought after by collectors, embodying a rich history and timeless design.
The rarest and most sought-after early model Speedmasters (CK 2915 Series and CK 2998) are:
CK 2915-1 (1957-1958): The inaugural model featuring a broad arrow hour hand, steel bezel, and tachymeter scale.
CK 2915-2 (1958-1959): An update with a black aluminium bezel insert, maintaining the broad arrow hands.
CK 2915-3 (1959-1962): A symmetrical case design and alpha-shaped hour hand distinguish this version.
CK 2998 (1959-1962): Iconic model with a black aluminium bezel and alpha-shaped hands.
CK 2998-61 (1962-1965): Transitional model with a black bezel and new “Alpha” hands.
The Omega Speedmaster’s rich history, from motorsports to space exploration, coupled with its distinctive design and precision, has solidified it as one of the most celebrated chronographs in horological history. The early models detailed above are amongst the rarest vintage watches available today and are, therefore, highly sought-after.
Conclusion
Just because these are incredibly rare vintage watches that collectors would love to own, it doesn’t mean that mere mortals like you and me can’t get a piece of the action.
In this article, we’ve detailed some of the rare vintage watches we know to be in collectors’ dreams. However, these watch models have been produced over many decades, with less precious iterations being manufactured, and often in greater numbers.
This means that versions of these watch models can be found for a fraction of the price of the rare models we detail here. If you’re on the lookout for a vintage watch, browse our wide collection of authentic watches now. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, get in touch; we are always happy to do the research on your behalf.
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