THE RETURN OF
THE DRESS WATCH?

It’s definitely a thing, as evidenced by the many new releases at Watches & Wonders 2024. This year, we saw a return to the roots and reinterpretations of classic icons in fine watchmaking. Rolex’s “new-old” 1908 collection stands out as a clear example, along with the Cartier Tortue, which dates back to 1912. Vacheron’s new hand-wound Patrimony, with its beautifully thin and vintage-inspired case, also harks back to the 1950s.

People are becoming more comfortable wearing dress watches not just for formal occasions, but on weekends with casual wear as well. The problem is, most of these new watches cost tens of thousands of dollars, putting them out of reach for many. Another issue is that new watches typically drop in value by around 40% as soon as they leave the showroom.

But what about vintage Rolex, Vacheron, or Cartier watches? Are they reliable? Absolutely. The quality and craftsmanship of mid-20th-century Swiss watches are legendary. A good watchmaker can handle almost any issue, and parts can usually be made if necessary. Even if the watch needs to go back to the manufacturer, it’s not a big deal.

So, if vintage watches are reliable, why are they so much cheaper than their modern equivalents? Well, the warranty isn’t as long, even from the best dealers, and vintage watches aren’t quite as reliable as new ones. But like owning a classic car, the charm and potential for appreciation are greater. With proper care and maintenance, a vintage watch is very unlikely to let you down.

So, what should you buy? Omega is a safe bet for those new to vintage dress watches. Their classic hand-wound or automatic watches are well-made, reliable, accurate, and easy to service. If you’re looking for something a bit higher in quality, consider Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, or Zenith. At the top of the value chain are Vacheron and Patek.

You can’t go wrong with any of these brands, so it’s just a matter of choosing a watch you like within your budget. Of course, with so many options, it can be confusing. Chrono24 is a great place to get a feel for what you like. Take your time, save images of watches that catch your eye, and ask plenty of questions. Remember, the only foolish question is the one you didn’t ask before making a purchase. A good dealer will always prioritise their reputation over a single sale.