WHICH WATCH DID
JAMES BOND WEAR?

For over fifty years, James Bond has captivated audiences worldwide, becoming a pop culture legend. Alongside his suave demeanour and thrilling adventures, Bond’s watches have sparked extensive discussion and debate.

From Sean Connery to Daniel Craig, and from Rolex to Seiko to Omega, with many other iconic actors and remarkable timepieces in between, here’s your ultimate guide to the diverse watches that have graced the wrist of 007 throughout his storied cinematic journey.

(Pictured above: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 18ct Pink Gold Cal.A260 1952)

Speculation about which wristwatch James Bond should wear predates the first movie, “Dr. No,” from 1962. It’s alleged that Ian Fleming, Bond’s creator, wore a Rolex Explorer (Ref. 1016) and described Bond’s watch in the novels as a Rolex Oyster Perpetual made of stainless steel with an expanding bracelet and a dial with large luminous numerals. Many believe Fleming was referencing his own Rolex, making the Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 the first “official” Bond watch.

When Sean Connery debuted as James Bond in “Dr. No,” the producers stayed true to Fleming’s vision of Bond as a Rolex wearer. However, Connery wore a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, known today as the “James Bond Submariner.” Connery sported this watch in “Dr. No,” “From Russia with Love,” and “Goldfinger,” which legend has it, may have been from his personal collection. This Submariner featured an oversized 8mm “Big Crown” and an aluminium bezel insert with a red triangle marker. Initially on a brown leather strap in “Dr. No,” it later appeared on a thin, striped nylon NATO strap in “Goldfinger.”

Connery’s Bond wore the Submariner again in “Thunderball” (1965), but also used a Breitling Top Time with a built-in Geiger counter, a gadget provided by Q. This modified Breitling, Ref. 2002, helped Bond track stolen nuclear missiles underwater and was later sold at a Christie’s auction for over 100,000 British pounds.

In “You Only Live Twice” (1967), Connery’s Bond switched to a gold-cased Gruen Precision 510, an understated dress watch. This watch was likely Connery’s own and marked a departure from the action-oriented Submariner. Connery briefly left the series after this film but returned in “Diamonds Are Forever” (1971), where his wristwatch remained unclear but was likely the same gold Gruen.

Sean Connery’s tenure as James Bond set the stage for the diverse and iconic watches that would follow in the series, cementing the character’s association with stylish and functional timepieces.

(Pictured above: Rolex Submariner Ref.5508 1957 Exclamation Dot Dial)

With the 1970s came both a new James Bond and a new era in watchmaking technology that would shape the spy’s wristwear for more than a decade. Roger Moore, known for his role in “The Saint,” debuted as Bond in 1973’s “Live and Let Die.” He wore a Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513, equipped with gadgets like a buzz-saw bezel and a magnetic field generator. This unique watch sold for 365,000 Swiss francs in 2015. The film also featured a Tissot PR 516 during a memorable speedboat chase.

The Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 LED digital watch, worn by Moore in the opening scene, signalled a shift toward electronic digital timepieces. However, Moore’s Bond continued to wear the Rolex Submariner in “The Man with the Golden Gun” (1974).

In “The Spy Who Loved Me” (1977), Moore wore a Seiko 0674 LC, notable for its ticker-tape message feature, marking the start of Seiko’s prominent role in Bond films. “Moonraker” (1979) saw Moore’s Bond sporting a Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar, equipped with an explosive device.

For “For Your Eyes Only” (1981), Moore wore the Seiko H357 Duo Display, and the Seiko “Golden Tuna” dive watch (Ref. 7459-7009), the first dive watch with a quartz movement and a titanium case.

Moore’s final Bond film, “A View to a Kill” (1985), featured three Seiko models: a two-tone quartz analog-date watch (Ref. 6923-8080), a steel-cased analog quartz chronograph (Ref. 7A28-7020), and the analog-digital H558-5000 dive watch. Interestingly, Moore’s own Rolex Datejust makes a brief appearance, blending the lines between Seiko and Rolex in his last Bond adventure.

(Pictured above: Rolex Submariner Ref.5508 1959 – Superb Tropical Dial)

With “The Living Daylights” in 1987, the James Bond franchise took a turn towards a grittier, more serious tone, aligning closer with Ian Fleming’s original novels. Welsh actor Timothy Dalton stepped into the role, bringing a darker and more intense edge to the character. Dalton’s Bond wore a TAG Heuer Night Diver Ref. 980.031, featuring a black PVD case and a luminous dial. Due to the timing of the company’s name change in the late 1980s, it’s unclear if the watch was branded as “Heuer” or “TAG Heuer.”

Dalton’s second and final Bond film, “License to Kill” (1989), saw the last appearance of a Rolex on Bond’s wrist. Dalton wore a Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610 any would be fine, while his stunt double sported a Submariner Ref. 5513 on an Oyster bracelet. This film marked the end of the Submariner Ref. 5513’s production, making its appearance a fitting tribute to the classic Bond watch legacy.

After a lengthy hiatus, James Bond returned to the big screen in 1995 with a new 007 — Irish actor Pierce Brosnan. Brosnan, known for his charming role in “Remington Steele,” brought a fresh face to the franchise along with a new watch provider: Omega. This partnership began when costume designer Lindy Hemming chose an Omega Seamaster for Brosnan’s first Bond film, “GoldenEye,” believing it suited the naval background and sophisticated persona of James Bond. Brosnan wore the Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2541.80, featuring a quartz movement, a blue dial, and fictional gadgets like a laser beam and a remote detonator.

Brosnan favoured the Seamaster, and in his subsequent films, he wore a similar model, the Seamaster Professional Ref. 2531.80.00, which featured an automatic chronometer-rated movement, the Omega Caliber 1120. This watch appeared in “Tomorrow Never Dies” (1997), equipped with a built-in detonator; “The World Is Not Enough” (1999), with a grappling hook; and “Die Another Day” (2002), featuring another remote detonating device. The Omega Seamaster became an integral part of Brosnan’s Bond, blending style with high-tech gadgetry, much like the iconic invisible Aston Martin in “Die Another Day.”

The James Bond franchise underwent another reboot in 2006, returning to the roots with an adaptation of Ian Fleming’s first Bond novel, “Casino Royale.” English actor Daniel Craig took on the role, portraying a younger, tougher Bond. Despite this back-to-basics approach, Omega continued as the official watch supplier. Craig’s Bond wears two Omega Seamasters in “Casino Royale”: a 45.5mm steel Planet Ocean Ref. 2900.50.91 for action scenes, and a Seamaster 300M Ref. 2220.80.00 for more formal occasions.

In “Quantum of Solace” (2008), Bond sticks with a Planet Ocean, specifically the 600-metre water-resistant Ref. 2201.50.00, featuring a 42mm steel case and a matte black dial, reflecting the gritty, gadget-free tone of the film.

“Skyfall” (2012) introduced a new Seamaster, the Aqua Terra “Midsize” Chronometer Ref. 231.10.39.21.03.001, with a teakwood-pattern dial and Omega’s co-axial Calibre 8500. Craig also wore a unique 42mm titanium Planet Ocean 600M (commercially available in steel), which sold at auction for over $250,000 after the film’s release.

In “Spectre” (2015), Bond’s gadgets returned alongside the reintroduction of classic villain Ernst Stavro Blofeld. Craig sported two Seamasters: the Aqua Terra Ref. 231.10.42.21.03.003 during the “Day of the Dead” sequence and a steel Seamaster 300 on a NATO strap, reminiscent of the Rolex in “Goldfinger.” The Seamaster 300 featured a built-in timed explosive.

Craig’s final Bond film, “No Time to Die” (2021), showcased the Seamaster Diver 300M “007 Edition,” which Craig helped design. This model has a titanium case, a scalloped-edge rotating bezel, and a brown “tropical” dial with vintage lume. Other characters also wore Omegas: Lashana Lynch’s Nomi sported a 38mm Aqua Terra, and Naomie Harris’ Moneypenny wore a 27.4mm De Ville Prestige.

With Craig’s departure, speculation about the next Bond is rampant, but one thing is certain: Omega will continue to be the timepiece of choice for 007, whether equipped with high-tech gadgets or classic elegance.