Rolex
Founded in 1905 in England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, the partnership became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving to its new Geneva headquarters in 1919. The success of the wristwatch can be largely attributed to many of Rolex’s innovations which made the company one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These have included its famous “Oyster” case — the world’s first water-resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and its “Perpetual” — the world’s first reliable, self-winding movement for the wristwatch, launched in 1933. These would form the foundation for Rolex’s Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956. Also and equally importantly, Rolex is known for its sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
Description
Here we have a beautifully restored gentleman’s 14ct vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Zephyr’ dress watch, from 1958. The Zephyr is a rare model characterised by a unique Zephyr bezel and cross-hair dial design with stud hour indices. This is Rolex model ref 1008, with the Cal.1560, Certified Chronometer Grade (highly accurate and highly reliable) automatic movement. Here the black Zephyr dial is simply stunning against the gold case and hands. This highly elegant Rolex is in immaculate condition.
The Dial
Please take a good look at the simplicity and beauty of this dial design. The original Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Zephyr’ dial is a spectacular variation on the classic Rolex Oyster Perpetual design. This black dial example features a cross-hair design with small dot stud hour indices. The use of small dots rather than the ‘baton’ or ‘arrowhead’ hour indices leaves empty space on the dial giving a very sparse and sleek look. The black dial contrasts wonderfully with the gold crosshairs, other dial markings, ‘Dauphine’ hands and gold watch case.
The design gives a slight space-age feel to the watch, while still maintaining the solid roots of a recognisable Rolex with, of course, the perennial Rolex Coronet at the very top of the dial.
The dial is signed ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual’, ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’ with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom of the dial.
The lens has been replaced with a new original, as part of the restoration.
This is the original Rolex dial which has been restored to the very highest standards by our dial restorers who are considered to be the best in the UK.
The Watch Case
The original Swiss hallmarked 14ct gold case measures 34mm in diameter, excluding the original Rolex Oyster screw-down crown. As mentioned above, this is a rare watch due to its black dial and Zephyr bezel, which here is almost like new. It is showing only the faintest signs of wear, which is unusual as these are prone to damage and are often over polished. The rest of the case, the sides, lugs and case-back are also all in tip-top condition.
The case has been professionally cleaned and very lightly hand-polished, only to remove some tarnishing, and it is now looking superb. Inside the case-back are two Swiss 14ct hallmarks and 0.585-14K, along with ‘MONTRES ROLEX SA GENEVA SWITZERLAND PATENTED’ and the model no. 1008. Between the lugs at 6 is the case serial number 856,579 which dates the watch to 1958 and between the lugs at 12 is signed ‘REGISTERED DESIGN’ and the model number 1008.
Please note, although the waterproof seals have been replaced as part of the restoration, and this watch was originally specified as waterproof when new, this has not been tested and it is not guaranteed. As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Movement
The watch carries its original very high grade ‘Superlative Chronometer’ Calibre 1560, 26 Jewel automatic movement which is in sparklingly clean condition. The movement has been fully overhauled which involves full dismantling, ultrasonic cleaning, microscope inspection and replacement of parts as required, only with new originals, then careful reassembly and oiling ready for final testing and careful calibration. The watch is now running perfectly having been calibrated and timed at +5 seconds per day and is now ready for many more years of reliable service. This movement also has a 48 hour power reserve when fully wound.
The movement is all correctly signed ‘MONTRES ROLEX SA GENEVA’, ‘SWISS’, and ‘TWENTY SIX JEWELS’ with the Calibre number 1560 and the reference number D39545. These Chronometer grade movements are very strong, very accurate and very reliable making this watch perfectly suitable for evening wear and everyday use. This particular movement is in superb A1 condition and with regular servicing, every 3 – 4 years, we would fully expect this watch to run happily for many more years to come! We are pleased to offer a 12 month warranty on this watch movement*.
*Please note – our 12 month warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.
The Strap & Buckle
A new heavy black hide leather strap has been fitted along with a gold-plated Rolex buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of 19mm straps.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, all the numbers and markings on the watch are correct, dating the watch to 1958.
A detailed ‘Particulars’ document will be included in the sale, in addition to our detailed receipt and 12 months warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
The matching Rolex presentation box shown in the photographs will be included with this watch.
In Conclusion
A rare and particularly special Oyster Perpetual from horology’s most famous name which will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something to wear, treasure and enjoy! It will make the perfect evening wear dress watch as well as a practical, highly accurate and reliable timepiece to use on an everyday basis. Although this is one of our more expensive watches, its quality will be remembered for long after its purchase price will be forgotten.
Vintage gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches are highly collectable, and the rarity of this watch means the value will always remain strong, meaning this watch will also make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. Even though vintage Rolex prices have risen strongly in recent years, we feel high-quality fine examples such as this still remain undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage watches expands, availability will become more limited, so prices are surely destined to climb ever higher.
A word about our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these for sale at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach, inevitably, means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are a number of well-known stores in West London which are very successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and if you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.
We will be happy to service your watch, repair your watch or fully restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions, we welcome your call: 020 7727 7095. If calling from overseas: +44 207 727 7095.
We are ready and available and awaiting your call! We will be happy to answer any questions and offer advice about this or any of our watches listed for sale. If you would like some general advice regarding any aspect of vintage watches, including buying, selling, or collecting vintage watches, we will also be happy to hear from you.
Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
