Longines
Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. The company is also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made. However, it has been something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity until recently. Longines is now rightfully returning towards the elevated status it once held in the pre and post-war years when it competed head to head among the very best Swiss watch manufacturers. It is really only within the past three years that Longines vintage watches have risen again to the admiration and popularity they deserve, with values rising by around 15 – 20% per year. On certain models however, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre.13ZN chronograph, prices have sky-rocketed.
Description
Here we have an attractive and original two-tone Longines dress watch in 18ct yellow gold from 1954. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches you see on this site along with the case and movement. Here, however, because the dial has such an even patina, without any significant pitting, staining or scratches, we have decided to leave it completely untouched and as it is. Many collectors prefer this to retain the originality and charm of the watch. If however you would like to purchase this watch and have us restore it at our cost price, please let us know.
The Dial
Due to its size and fancy dial, this would have been a very expensive Longines dress watch in its day. Faceted ‘baton’ and dual faceted ‘spearhead’ hour indices are matched with the original Dauphine hands which are in superb condition. A subsidiary seconds dial complements the main dial wonderfully.
We are particular admirers of Longines dials which always seem to score more highly, regularly producing dials which are that bit closer to classic perfection. Even the name and the brand look more ‘in place’ than any other, which incidentally is the oldest registered trademark of any watch manufacturer.
The dial is totally original and untouched. Originally it would have had a light brown centre dial with a golden outer dial. This has faded fairly evenly with some freckling which many will find particularly attractive, especially in real life. It is hard to appreciate from the studio photographs how nice the dial is on the wrist in natural daylight, so we have taken a wrist shot under natural daylight for you to compare.
This is the original unrestored dial which has been left untouched to retain its originality and charm.
The Movement
This original Longines Calibre 27, 17 Jewel hand-wound movement is a real gem. As can be seen in the photographs it looks like new. This is a very high-quality movement with gold chatons and screwed balance, Swiss lever escapement, Super-shock-resistance and subsidiary seconds. This is all much admired in watchmaking circles, particularly the large, screw weighted balance wheel which provides for greater accuracy and finer adjustment. All else being equal, the larger the balance wheel, the more accurate the watch.
The Calibre 27 was derived from the hugely successful Calibre 23 introduced in 1939, which in turn was derived from the calibre 10.68Z movement that made its debut in 1932. Each of these were milestones in Longines movement development.
If ever one wished to highlight a great example of a top quality classic hand-wound watch movement, this could easily be chosen. The quality of finishing and build is exceptional and better finished than anything offered by Rolex of the same period. For example, each jewel is held in its own threaded gold sleeve, which is then in turn screwed into the plates. This is a much more sophisticated method than those which simply fitted their jewels into drilled holes in the bridges, as was the practice of Rolex and Omega of the same period.
As can be seen, the movement is in tip-top condition having just completed an overhaul and service by our watchmaker. This means it has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected under high magnification and then rebuilt using only original Longines parts where required. After testing and final calibration, this watch was running to within +6 seconds per day, which is outstanding for a vintage watch of this age. The movement also has a power reserve of 44hrs.
The movement is correctly signed ‘LONGINES’, ‘17 Jewels’ and ‘Swiss’ with the Calibre number 27 and the movement serial number 9481610 which dates the watch to 1954.
These movements are robust, reliable and accurate making this watch perfectly suited for regular everyday use. This particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing, every 3 to 5 years we would fully expect this watch to provide faithful service for many more decades to come! We are therefore more than pleased and confident to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement*
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.
The Watch Case
The high-quality 18ct yellow gold three-piece watch case is superbly made with attractive curl lugs which are swept back to present the watch beautifully on the wrist. The round edge case-back is flat and blemish-free. In fact, from any viewpoint, there are no scratches, dings or other marks visible to the naked eye.
The case measures 36mm in diameter, excluding the correct Longines signed crown. The watch measures 43mm lug to lug and is quite thin at 9mm in depth, including the lens.
Inside the case-back, the case all is as expected and correctly signed ‘Longines’ with Swiss 18ct hallmarks, the case reference number 380 and the model reference 6247.
This watch has obviously been very well cared for and has seen only occasional use, as evidenced by its condition which is completely scratch and blemish-free. The rest of the case has no marks, dings or scratches visible to the naked eye and has only required a professional clean and light hand-polish as part of the restoration.
As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap and Buckle
The strap fitted is a new Black Lizard strap with a Longines gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock and in plain padded leather, or crocodile skin or lizard skin.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the numbers and markings on the watch are all correct, dating the watch to 1954.
A detailed written receipt with a 12 month warranty* and a separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
The Longines presentation case shown in the photographs is included with this watch.
In Conclusion
This is a beautiful vintage gold gentleman’s dress watch from one of the most collectable and ‘time honoured’ brands and this watch will make an excellent financial investment as well as be something to treasure and enjoy! It is in really excellent original condition throughout and completely practical for use as an everyday watch. Provided it is treated carefully and serviced every 2-3 years, it will last another lifetime. It carries a great deal more style, individuality and style than a modern watch and to buy the same quality today would cost many more times the price you see here.
However, you may wish to view the watch, as each year goes by and the world market for fine vintage gold watches grows even larger, the limited supply and high demand means prices will inevitably climb even higher!
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be good value and very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges, along with outright purchases of similar watches to restore, service and list.
We can also offer Watch Service, Watch Repair & Watch Restoration, please see here.
If you have any questions please call 0207 727 7095 or if calling from overseas: +44 207 727 7095.
We are here, ready, available and await your call.
Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
