Tiffany & Co. IWC Movement 18ct 1929

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany is a Jeweller founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1837 in New York City. Since 1851, when Antoine Norbert de Patek visited Charles Lewis Tiffany in his business in New York, there has been a co-operation between Tiffany and Patek Philippe. The store sold a wide variety of items as “Tiffany, Young and Ellis” in Manhattan. The name was shortened to Tiffany & Company in 1853 when Charles Tiffany took control. He established the firm’s emphasis on jewellery.

The range was expanded to include silver goods and watches, among other things. In 1845, high-priced jewellery was added and the Blue Book, an order catalog, was launched. Trading in diamonds and Swiss watches began in 1848, and Tiffany made gold jewellery herself for the first time.

Description

The wonderful watch we have here reminds us very much of a Cartier Tank – this being a watch that was released around the same period. A rare, rectangular-cased 1920s, 18ct yellow gold Tiffany watch with a beautiful dial, which remains in original, unrestored and untouched condition. This watch was commissioned by Tiffany & Co. and features a high quality IWC movement. Relatively few square or rectangular shaped Tiffany watches have been produced and therefore these case shapes are more exclusive. At 22mm across, excluding the original unsigned crown, this is a good sized Ladies Tiffany dress watch for the period.

The Dial

Although this watch is over 90 years old, the dial design is so elegant and timeless it could easily be mistaken for a contemporary watch today.

The beautiful Tiffany & Co. dial, carries original gold ‘cathedral’ hands and standard Arabic 1 – 12 numerals on a silver/grey background, all delicately framed by a minute rail track in black. So well balanced, beautifully proportioned and executed to perfection. In harmony with the watch case, the dial speaks of pure class, simple elegance, quality and confidence.

This watch is simply signed ‘Tiffany & Co.’ just below the ’12’.

The watch also has the wonderful and rare addition of a curvex lens which is original to this watch. The curvex lens is of wonderful thickness and allows the watch to stand perfectly proud on the wrist.

This dial is completely original, unrestored and untouched and is in remarkable condition for its age. As can be seen it is showing minor signs of its age and only very slight signs of fading.

Movement

As can be seen, the IWC movement in this watch is in great condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand 90 years ago and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as one could ever wish. This movement is in A1 condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced. The IWC movement within is considered to be exceedingly high quality for this period, making this a very expensive watch when new.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +9 seconds per day, averaged over 3 positions. This is truly outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.

The movement is all correctly signed ‘International Watch Co Swiss’ and ‘Seventeen Jewels’, with the movement serial number 910,626, which dates this watch to 1929.

The Case

This wonderful example is all the more desirable due to having an 18ct yellow gold case. As stated earlier, rectangular Tiffany watches are rare, due to low production numbers, which makes these highly sought after today and the 18ct gold case just adds to the desirability.

Tiffany watches have always been conservatively sized and at 22mm across, excluding the crown, this was a typical size for the period. Although this may appear small, the watch measures 42mm overall and 46mm, including the beautiful straight lugs, actually making this watch a large size watch for this period.

The condition of the two-piece case is outstanding, indicating the watch has seen only light and careful use. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with its two halves pressing together with a very firm click and there are no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case, it is all correctly and simply signed as expected with Swiss 18ct hallmarks and the case serial number 64663.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a new burgundy alligator strap and plain gold-plated buckle, which we think suits the watch beautifully. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1929.

Detailed particulars will be included with the receipt, along with our 12 months’ warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will also be provided at the time of sale with our ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

This watch comes complete with a high quality hardwood presentation box, as shown.

In Conclusion

Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty – to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece.

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are many well-known stores in West London which are very successful charging between two to three times our prices. We therefore consider our prices to be very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would wish to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or International Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and offers of watches for sale.

We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.