FAQs

Read our most frequently asked questions here. For those who enjoy further reading, scroll to the bottom for extended reading about vintage watch history, mechanics, and more.

Most Commonly Asked Questions

We can confidently assure you that all of our watches are 100% genuine, authentic and completely original, as stated in all of our listings. By this, we mean no after-market internal parts or, worse, no molestation of the movement!

To provide complete reassurance we offer a Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee with every watch we sell. This states: “If your watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, we will provide you with a full refund at any time”. We take authenticity very seriously, so when you buy a watch from us, you have 100% peace of mind. We also issue a Certificate of Authenticity with the sale of every watch, certifying that your watch has been fully inspected and is completely genuine.

In order to guarantee authenticity, all our watches are put through a very thorough inspection and review. Before listing a watch for sale, we ensure all the numbers on the movement are correct, the watch case is properly hallmarked and marked with the branding and references which match the date of the watch. This includes ensuring the watch also has the correct dial for the model and year.

We source our watches very carefully, buying nearly all our watches from a select group of trade suppliers whom we have known and trusted for many years. These ‘dealer’s dealers’ are very well established and have strong reputations to protect. Additionally, we rely on the decades of experience of our watchmakers and restoration team, who inspect and confirm the authenticity of each watch we sell.

When viewing watches on our website you will see that all photographs are of a very high resolution. This is to give you the best possible view of a watch, from many angles. In fact, our photographs are so high resolution that you are able to see the watch in much more detail (including the movement) than you would if viewing the watch in person with the naked eye or even under a high-power magnifying glass.

Lastly, for a little extra reassurance, please also feel free to review:

Our 100% positive feedback on eBay

Our 5-star feedback on Chrono24, a vintage watch trading website we have been trading on since 2019

Our 5-star reviews on the independent third-party review website feefo.com

Restorations and repairs

This is often a contentious question among watch collectors. Firstly, it is not often appreciated that Rolex, Omega, JLC and most other brands would often replace the dial when servicing a watch. This happened when, for example, the luminous markers began to fade, or when a dial became faded, stained, pitted or otherwise damaged through ageing. Early dials were often more prone to this due to poorer manufacturing techniques.

Also, smoking was much more fashionable in the 1950s and 1960s, and this would not only damage the owner’s lungs but also their watch. So, many vintage watches with supposedly clean, original and unrestored dials have, in fact, been replaced years ago when the watch was serviced – brands often restore dials during service, even today.

Some collectors often prefer vintage watches with unrestored dials, preferring some signs of ageing to retain the original character of the watch. And some seem amazingly tolerant of dial staining, pitting, scratches and fading. They will often state an original unrestored dial forms a large part of the value of a vintage watch. But while this may remain true for one section of the market, mostly old-school collectors, it is certainly not true of the main market today. This has evolved considerably in the past 20 years, particularly as restoration techniques have improved. These have become so good that it is often very difficult, even for an expert, to tell a restored dial from a good original. The main telltale being the restored dial will be the one without any damage.

Niche markets, such as the military watch collector market, tend to prefer unrestored dials. However, many ‘main market’ vintage watch dealers today, including ourselves, confirm that the majority of the market prefers fully restored watches, which naturally include the dial. Therefore, stronger market demand for fully restored watches usually means these command a higher price across the main market. This is often the case even over watches with ‘very good’ unrestored dials.

At the end of the day, it’s very much down to personal taste and preferences.

Watch Knowledge

Background reading on the brands we specialise in

A Brief History of Rolex

The story of Rolex and Hans Wilsdorf, its founder, are inextricably intertwined. Rolex, like the modern-day Apple Computer, revolves around the passion of one man who drove the company to greatness. Even after the passing of Hans Wilsdorf at Rolex, and Steve Jobs at Apple, both companies continue to be strong in their respective industries because of the drive, passion, marketing prowess and relentless pursuit of detail and perfection. Like Apple computers, Rolex’s history goes back to its initial founder, Hans Wilsdorf. Most of the depictions of Rolex’s history go back to the founder because the company’s roots, design and marketing ethos and purpose are rooted in the founder’s life experiences. The story of Rolex is no different.

Humble Beginnings

The start of Rolex begins with the birth of Hans Eberhard Wilhelm Wilsdorf in Kulmbach, Bavaria, Germany, on March 22, 1881. The son of a hardware store owner (Ironmonger), Wilsdorf was destined to continue the family business. However, both his parents died within months of each other when Wilsdorf was just 12.

Wilsdorf’s mother was a descendant of the Maisel brewing dynasty, so there were expectations that Wilsdorf would continue one of the family businesses, but that was not to be. Wilsdorf and his siblings were left in the care of his aunt and uncle, who went on to sell the family hardware business and placed the proceeds into the Wilsdorf Trust until the heirs were of age. The Wilsdorf Trust started as the result of a tragedy, and was the basis for the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation started later in Wilsdorf’s life.

From his parents’ passing until the age of 18, Wilsdorf attended a boarding school in Coburg where he excelled at mathematics and languages, particularly English. Aged 18, soon after his boarding school experience had come to a close, Wilsdorf developed an inkling for Geneva, Switzerland, through a boarding school friend. Wilsdorf worked at a pearl distribution company learning a great deal about world trade and the jewellery industry. After a stint in the pearl industry, Wilsdorf left and joined watch exporter Cuno Korten.

Having no watch experience, Wilsdorf worked as a correspondent/translator, being asked to write letters, predominantly in English. It was at Cuno Korten that Wilsdorf decided that he would like to pursue a career in the watch industry. Cuno Korten purchased most of its components from manufacturers in France, Germany and Switzerland. Wilsdorf commissioned three watchmakers to fabricate three pocket watches that were soon certified chronometers at the Neuchatel Observatory – those watches sold quickly for a profit, which impressed Wilsdorf’s bosses.

After a short compulsory Army stint at the age of 22, Wilsdorf decided to move to London in 1903 to work in the English watch industry at an unknown watch company whilst he planned to start his own watch company, although, on his trip to London, thieves had stolen Wilsdorf’s inheritance totalling 33,000 German gold marks. At age 24, Wilsdorf met Alfred James Davis and partnered with him to build their own watch-making company. Davis had the money to invest and Wilsdorf had the watchmaking knowledge from his experiences at Cuno Korten; the partnership was further strengthened by Davis, who married Wilsdorf’s younger sister. Wilsdorf also acquired British citizenship after a battle with the city of Geneva about the confiscation of a plot of land on Lac Leman.

The Start of Greatness

Wilsdorf utilised money borrowed from his siblings to match Davis’ investment so that they would each own 50% of the company. As equal partners, they complimented each other’s skills and backgrounds. Wilsdorf knew about watches, and Davis knew about financing and international trade. This was the start of Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd, utilising ebauches from Jean Aegler based in Bienne. Wilsdorf learned of the Aegler while working at Cuno Korten. remaining focused, Wilsdorf and Davis only produced two watches; a pocket watch and a purse watch for men and women, respectively. In addition to these watches, Wilsdorf learned of the utility of wristwatches in the Boer War and decided to specialise in what was then a non-existent market.

At the time, wristwatches were small in size and number, not known to be very accurate, and worn primarily by women. Gentlemen were quoted to say that they “would sooner wear a skirt than wear a wristwatch.” Additionally, the watch industry at the time thought that a wristwatch could not withstand the rigours of human activity. This all changed with the Boer War as the intense heat prevented soldiers from wearing jackets, and thus soldiers found themselves strapping small pocket watches on their wrists.

Wristwatches appeared to be more than just a passing fad and became very popular. In 1912, Wilsdorf returned to Bienne and negotiated with Aegler for a consistent supply of watch movements. This was the largest contract ever signed for watch movements at the time. At the same time, trademark and logo styles were an industry trend and the name Wilsdorf & Davis did not have the same ‘sound’ as Kodak and Coke. Wilsdorf & Davis thought of a company name that does not mean anything in particular, is easy to pronounce in multiple languages, is hard to misspell, and thus settled on the name Rolex. Just as the name Apple does not have any direct connection to computers, Rolex had no direct link to watchmaking.

Dispelling the myth that wristwatches are not accurate, Rolex sent its first movement to the School of Horology in Bienne in 1910, one of the early time-keeping institutes. Rolex was awarded the world’s first wristwatch chronometer rating. With this rating, Rolex overcame the first challenge of making a wristwatch that could keep accurate time. The other two challenges were in keeping wristwatches watertight and for it to be autowinding. Further proving the accuracy of well-built wristwatch movements, Rolex was awarded the ‘Class A’ Certificate of Precision from the Kew Observatory in England, the first certificate awarded to a wristwatch. The testing involves 45 days in five positions and three temperatures. Prior to Rolex, these certificates were only awarded to marine chronometers.

Realising the value of timing certificates, Wilsdorf insisted that all Rolex timepieces would undergo similar testing and asserted that no Rolex watch should be sold without its “Official Timing Certificate.” For Aegler, Rolex would not accept any movements unless they passed Rolex’s seven-day battery of tests. Accepting no less than a timing certificate, Rolex set the timing standard for the rest of the watch industry.

With a consistent supply of watch movements from Aegler and a registered brand name (in Switzerland in 1908 and England in 1912) that anyone could pronounce, along with a product that was in high demand – but that none of the traditional watchmakers wanted to make, the company was on a sure footing. The start of World War I further stimulated wristwatch demand but brought anti-German trade restrictions to England. Due to the high tariffs on watch and jewellery components coming into England, Wilsdorf and Davis decided to move much of the production back to Bienne, utilising the partnership they forged with Hermann Aegler.

In 1919, Rolex purchased a percentage of the Aegler company and began to call itself Aegler S.A. Rolex Watch Company. Soon after that, Wilsdorf bought out Davis’s share of the company and moved the office to Geneva, where he registered “Montres Rolex S.A.” on the 17th of January. Wilsdorf settled in Geneva in order to let the factory in Biel be entirely devoted to manufacturing watch movements, whereas Geneva would focus on creating case models that fit cosmopolitan tastes. The movements were manufactured in Biel/Bienne, but the watches were assembled in Geneva.

On the 2nd of May, 1925, Rolex trademarked the famous crown or coronet in Geneva, Switzerland. After an expensive advertising campaign in 1926 to raise brand awareness, “Rolex” began to appear on every dial exclusively, and the Rolex name quickly became synonymous with quality and distinction.

The Oyster Case

In 1925, Rolex addressed the weak spot in all watch cases, the winding stem and its predilection for leaking water and dust. Wilsdorf heard of a patent filed by Paul Perregaux and Georges Peret for a new winding stem and button/crown. He bought the patent and registered the world’s first waterproof case, the Oyster, on July 29th, 1926, in Switzerland, and again in London on February 28th, 1927.

The term Oyster came to Wilsdorf whilst trying to open an oyster at a dinner party. Opening Rolex watches today requires a special tool, very similar to those one would use when opening an Oyster. With a sealed crown, combined with a watertight synthetic crystal that was also introduced at the time, alongside a threaded bezel and case-back introduced by Aaron Dennison, founder of Waltham Watch Company, Wilsdorf now had the three main watch deficiencies addressed, the crown, the case and the timing accuracy.

Despite patent protection, Wilsdorf had to defend its patent from imitators and in 1934, Wilsdorf filed against Schmitz Brothers in Grenchen, Germany. After 2½ years of litigation, the Swiss court agreed that on July 8th, 1937, the Schmitz Brothers owed compensatory damages to Rolex. Although Wilsdorf had not invented the waterproof watch, he was the first to make the idea practical and fabricate using modern industrial manufacturing methods.

Endorsing Sporting Greatness

With a human-proof watch, Wilsdorf showed his marketing prowess by launching yet another massive advertising campaign to promote the Oyster waterproof watch. Unlike other watches at that time, the Oyster was designed to withstand day-to-day elements. On October 21st, 1927, Wilsdorf launched an advertising campaign depicting Mercedes Gleitze, a 26-year-old London typist, who became the first woman to swim the English Channel. In her vindication swim, two weeks after her first successful attempt, Gleitze was the first to achieve such a feat whilst wearing a watch, and a Rolex nonetheless.

After her first successful swim, Wilsdorf saw an opportunity to promote the toughness of his watches by having her wear one on a chain around her neck during her second swimming attempt. Wilsdorf realised that advertising alone would not associate quality and reliability in the consumers’ minds, it had to be proven. The Mercedes Gleitze swim was one of the first instances of using athletes and explorers as first-person testimonials for a watch’s durability and reliability.

The advertisement in England’s Daily Mail newspaper on the 24th of November, 1927, boasted of the “greatest triumph in watchmaking”, along with Gleitze’s testimonial quote stating that her Rolex Oyster “proved itself a reliable and accurate timekeeping companion even though it was subjected to complete immersion for hours in seawater at a temperature of no more than 58 and often as low as 51 [10-14 degrees Celsius.]”

The Automatic Watch Movement

Wilsdorf realised that although the case was sealed, watch wearers would forget to wind their watch, or would perhaps leave the crown unscrewed, leaving the movement vulnerable to dust and water. Wilsdorf’s next technical challenge was to come up with a method for automatic winding. Earlier in the decade, John Harwood introduced the first self-winding wristwatch based on a weight swinging from a central point on top of the case, similar to a playground swing; the mainspring would be wound by the weight contacting a wheel that would then tighten the mainspring.

The design was based on a pedometer design from 1770 by Abraham Louis Perrelet and the weight was restricted through the use of bumpers. The technical drawback was that the bumpers proved destructive and were not an efficient use of centrifugal force. Nonetheless, the design showed the utility of having a fully sealed watch that did not require unscrewing the crown to ensure its daily function.

Wilsdorf was set on using his existing movement with a modification for auto winding. In 1931, Wilsdorf used an existing Aegler movement and a winding mass placed upon a centre axis that could rotate freely in both directions and thus maintain a “perpetual” motion. Demonstrating how ingenuity stays in the family, Herman Aegler’s brother-in-law, and the technical lead at Rolex, is credited with the centre-staff rotating weight design that is now commonplace in all automatic watch movements worldwide, even after the patent expired in 1948.

In addition to having a watertight case, the mainspring is now consistently wound, providing a full tank of power that in turn, improves the watch’s mean timing accuracy. A full and consistent power reserve allows for consistent timing, which underlies Rolex’s records for accuracy throughout the 1930s, ’40s and ’50s. By 1934, Rolex was the first watch company to receive class certificates from all four of the main observatories (Kew, Geneva, Neuchatel and Besancon).

Weathering Difficult Times

1931 brought disaster and opportunity. Rolex business flourished, but the British Pound was drastically devalued on September 21st as a result of the world economic crisis and the Great Depression. The devaluation caused Rolex prices to rise, decreasing exports by 60%. If Rolex were to survive, it would have to sell outside of the British Empire. Subsequently, Wilsdorf established subsidiaries in Paris, Buenos Aires, and Milan, as well as exploring business opportunities in the Far East. The expansion was successful and the production of Rolex Oysters increased from 2,500 to approximately 30,000 watches a year.

In 1944, Wilsdorf’s wife, May, passed away, closely followed by his long-time business partner and friend, Hermann Aegler. This left Wilsdorf as Rolex’s sole owner. With no heirs and living in the aftermath of his father’s death, Wilsdorf created the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation in 1945. The trust was underwritten to provide strict direction on how the company was to be run after Wilsdorf’s death, ensuring that the company would never merge with another company, be sold or be publicly traded.

Rolex still runs under the direction of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation and he specified precise direction on the distribution of dividends, this meant that the majority of the money was donated to charity in honour of his late wife. Additionally, dividends were to fund a watchmaking school, a fine arts academy, and a business and social science faculty at various universities. The Wilsdorf Foundation proceeds also fund the Swiss watch research lab in Neuchatel as well as help to build a language library for the blind and an exhibition pavilion in Lucerne for animal protection. The Rolex Awards today are currently underwritten by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.

In 1945, Rolex continued to innovate by introducing the date window to mark the firm’s 40th birthday. The DateJust calibre 740. was the world’s first automatic date mechanism in a wristwatch. Named the DateJust because, well, Date is obvious, but “Just” stands for “just in time,” advancing precisely at midnight without delay. The date window was located on the right edge at 3 o’clock because most wearers have their watch on their left arm therefore allowing for the date window to easily peek out from under a shirt sleeve. The DateJust also possessed a central seconds hand, moving from the subsidiary seconds hand that was the style at the time. Also, in 1948, after 15 years of the original patent protection on the automatic winding rotor came to an end. Only after 1948, were other brands able to manufacture automatic watches.

Defining the Golden Era of Watchmaking

The 1950s were a decade of post-war growth and achievement for Rolex. On May 29th, 1953, experimental Rolex Explorers rose to 29,035 ft above sea level on the wrist of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. In the same year, a specially designed Deep Sea Special was attached to the exterior of Auguste Piccard’s bathyscaphe, which reached a depth of 10,335 ft, proving the concept that watches can be as pressure-proof as submarines.

Also in 1953, Rolex introduced the Turn-O-Graph at the Basel watch show, the predecessor of the Submariner. Following this, in 1954, Rolex released the Submariner with a water resistance of up to 100 metres as well as the Milgauss and the GMT Master pilots watch. Finally, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, the only watch that showed both the day and the date simultaneously, was released.

Closing out the decade in 1959 was the introduction of the Submariner 5512; water resistant to 200 metres, along with the introduction of crown guards that are prevalent on all Rolex sports watches. During the early 1950s, Rolex incorporated the venerable Cyclops window to the date aperture after Wilsdorf’s near-sighted second wife could not read the date on her watch. Also during the 1950s, Rolex had planted subsidiaries in Bombay, Brussels, Buenos Aires, Dublin, Havana, Johannesburg, London, Milan, Mexico City, New York, Paris, Sao Paulo and Toronto.

It is also important to note that Rolex’s Public Relations Director was pivotal in Rolex’s direction for making true tool watches. Rene-Paul Jeanneret was one of the most important executives at Rolex during the 1950s and into the 1960s. Jeanneret was the driving force behind the concept of a watch being designed for individual sports or professions. The notion of a watch for divers, explorers and also for businessmen came from Jeanneret. When Pan-American Airlines approached Rolex for a watch that could track 24-hour GMT time, the timing standard for airline pilots and navigators, it was Jeanneret who pursued the concept of the 24-hour hand on a watch and a rotating bezel that would allow timing in another time zone.

By taking an existing Turn-O-Graph, fitting it with a 24-hour hand and using the same bezel technology, but with a bright plastic insert, Rolex was able to introduce the GMT at Basel in 1954. As it was a derivative of the Turn-O-Graph, it did not have crown guards and was significantly smaller than the Submariner, which was also introduced the same year. The GMT was the first sports watch to possess a Cyclops, taken from the Turn-O-Graph model.

1960 was both a high and a low for Rolex. Rolex continued its technological evolutions by introducing the first Cosmograph chronograph model, which featured a tachymetric timing ring on a metal bezel. Also, in 1960, Rolex beat its own existing world record for submersion by attaching a Deep Sea Special to the Trieste bathyscaphe exterior while it descended to the bottom of the Mariana Trench at 35,798 feet, a depth greater than Mount Everest is tall.

Shortly after the success of the Deep Sea Special, 1960 also saw the passing of Rolex’s founder Hans Wilsdorf on the 6th of July, leaving Rolex to appointees as stated in the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. Starting in 1963, Andre J. Heiniger led Rolex throughout the second half of the century until 1992, when his son Patrick took control of the reins.

The 1960s saw more evolutions of the existing DateJusts, Air Kings and the sports/tool watch line. In 1967, Rolex introduced the Sea-Dweller, the first watch created with a helium gas escape valve for saturation divers. Standard Submariner watch crystals were popping off during helium decompression for saturation divers, so in coordination with Comex, a French saturation diving company, Rolex designed a Sea-Dweller model that was heavier than the standard diving Submariner and possessed a helium valve that would not only release small helium molecules that would enter the watch during saturation compression but remain pressure-proof when underwater. Also in 1967, Rolex introduced the Submariner 1680, complete with a date window cut into the dial like on the Turn-O-Graph and DateJust models.

From the 1970s through to the present day, Rolex continues on, and in the words of Patrick Heiniger, “Rolex is evolutionary, not revolutionary.” Even with competition from legitimate and illegitimate imitators, Rolex continues to produce new watches and new technologies such as the Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, and the use of ceramics. Although still very secretive, it is estimated that Rolex produces approximately 2,000 watches a day and has been consistently ranked in the top 100 global companies.

Historical Timeline and Listing of Technical Achievements

1905 Founding of “Wilsdorf & Davis.” A distribution company of watch cases and other horological items headquartered in London.

1908 Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark located at La Chaux-de Fonds, later moving to Bienne.

1910 Rolex obtained the first Official Swiss Chronometer certificate.

1914 Rolex obtained a ‘Class A’ certificate, Kew Observatory in English as the first wristwatch to outperform a pocket watch.

1919 Hans Wilsdorf moved the company office to 18 Rue du Marche, Geneva, and established the manufacturing company, Montres Rolex S.A.

1926 Rolex patents the screw-down crown, and created the Oyster case with a screw-down case-back and bezel.

1927 Mercedes Gleitze swims across the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster. The swim lasted 15 and ¼ hours.

1928 Rolex obtained a First Class Certificate from the Geneva Astronomical Observatory, the first ever awarded for a 6 ¾” wristwatch.

1931 Rolex invents and patents the “Perpetual Automatic Rotary Winding Mechanism”.

1935 Sir Malcolm Campbell broke the world automobile speed record (300 MPH) wearing a Rolex wristwatch.

1939 Rolex introduced the first chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers.

1945 Rolex introduced the DateJust, the first automatic and waterproof wristwatch chronometer.

1947 Rolex introduced the waterproof chronograph with a 12-hour totaliser and triple date.

1947 Chuck Yeager breaks the “Sound Barrier” in a Bell X-1 wearing a Rolex Oyster, the same one he had worn throughout his deployment in WWII.

1950 Rolex introduced the Turn-O-Graph, the first Rolex with a rotating bezel and the precursor to the Submariner.

1953 Rolex introduced the Submariner, the first automatic diver’s wristwatch water-resistant to 100 meters.

1953 On May 29th, Rolex rose to 29,035 ft above sea level on the wrist of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

1954 Rolex introduced the Submariner Ref. 6200, water-resistant to 200 metres.

1954 Rolex introduced the GMT-Master, an automatic chronometer with a 24-hour hand for aircraft pilots.

1956 Rolex introduced the Day-Date model, the first wristwatch to spell the day of the week as well as the numerical date.

1957 Rolex patents a new Microstella regulated balance in Beryllium

1959 Rolex introduces the Submariner Ref 5512 water resistant to 200 metres.

1960 Rolex straps a specially designed Deep Sea to the bathyscaphe Trieste which descended 10,916 meters to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, being the first watch to reach such a depth.

1960 Hans Wilsdorf passed away on July 6th, leaving Rolex to appointees as stated in the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.

1963 Rolex launches the first Oyster Cosmograph series ref. 6239

1963 Andre J. Heiniger leads Rolex to 1992 when his son Patrick takes over.

1964 Rolex patents a pressure-proof screw-down push button for chronographs.

1967 Rolex, in conjunction with Comex, a French diving company, released the Sea Dweller guaranteed water-resistant to a depth of 610 meters.

1967 Pete Knight breaks Mach 6.72 (4,534 MPH) in an X-15 aircraft wearing a GMT-Master; a record that still stands today.

1969 Rolex releases a Submariner with a date that is water resistant to 200 meters.

1970 Rolex started using synthetic sapphire crystals with the introduction of the all-gold OysterQuartz beta ref 5100.

By 1989, all Rolex watches were fitted with sapphire crystals.

This information is courtesy of CHS – Certification Horologerie Suisse.

Today, the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso is one of the most famous watches ever produced, but the company actually got its start producing ebauches (unbranded movements) for other companies. A little-known fact about Jaeger-LeCoultre is that in addition to producing movements for its own watches, the company has also produced movements for famous watch houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and IWC. As a matter of fact, in the early part of the 20th Century, Jaeger-LeCoultre even supplied ebauches to the great firm of Patek Philippe. Then, as now, Jaeger-LeCoultre was considered one of the finest watchmakers in Switzerland.

How it all Began

The year was 1833 when thirty-year-old Antoine LeCoultre, son of Vallee de Joux watchmaker Jacques LeCoultre, opened a small factory in the town of Le Sentier. Amazingly enough, the current Jaeger-LeCoultre factory is only a few feet away from the site of the original factory. In any event, LeCoultre soon proved himself to be a gifted watchmaker, but an even more brilliant inventor.

In 1844, LeCoultre revolutionised the watch industry with the invention of the millionometre, an instrument with which measurements of up to one-thousandths of a millimetre could be made accurately. As a result, precisely finished components could be manufactured, resulting in greatly improved accuracy in timekeeping. Likewise, the metric system became the universal measuring standard in watchmaking, while other systems were rendered obsolete.

Exceptional Movements

LeCoultre’s motto: “We must base our experience on science” – this was particularly true when it came to manufacturing precision movements and tools. The artistry came later at the hands of a master watchmaker who assembled, decorated and regulated the movements. In short, LeCoultre became the leading supplier of movements, parts and tools to the watchmaking industry in Switzerland.

LeCoultre movements were so highly regarded, in fact, that until 1910, the company provided Patek Philippe with most of its raw movements. It was only in later years that Patek Philippe built its own movements from scratch. In the meantime, other companies had come to rely exclusively on LeCoultre’s products from which they would create finished watches. LeCoultre’s success was so great, in fact, that between the years 1900 and 1919, 40,000 raw movements were produced.

In 1925, the grandson of the firm’s founder, David LeCoultre, merged his company with that of Edmond Jaeger, the exclusive supplier of watch movements to Cartier. This is when the modern company known as Jaeger-LeCoultre first came into existence. Incredibly enough, up to this point, Jaeger-LeCoultre had not sold any watches under its own name. The merger, however, prompted further technical innovations, not the least of which was a case made from stainless steel, as well as the creation of the smallest mechanical movement in the world, which weighed less than one gram.

The Reverso

The year 1931 saw the introduction of the Reverso, a wristwatch that could be turned 180 degrees within the case, thereby protecting the crystal and dial. It was a fantastic creation and one that was enthusiastically received by the public. Unfortunately, the worldwide economic crisis and World War II conspired to prevent the Reverso from achieving its full potential. Changing fashions coupled with the advent of waterproof watches might have forever doomed the watch to obscurity, had it not been for an Italian dealer who visited the factory in the 1960s and noticed a number of unused Reverso cases sitting in a watchmakers’ drawer. The Italian dealer bought the cases and fitted them with movements. The finished watches were an instant sell-out and the rest is history. Today, the Reverso is by far Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most popular model.

Another interesting story concerns David LeCoultre’s bid for Patek Philippe. In 1932, Patek Philippe was in major financial straits and looking for a white knight. LeCoultre, whose company manufactured movements for Patek, wanted to acquire a majority interest. He came close to finalising a deal but the Stern brothers, whose company supplied the dials used in Patek Philippe watches, ultimately acquired the company. Although Patek Philippe has certainly prospered under the Stern family’s management, it is nonetheless interesting to contemplate what effect a Patek Philippe/Jaeger-LeCoultre merger may have had on the Swiss watch industry.

Needless to say, the company has continued to thrive, introducing such innovations as the Memovox, Futurematic, Atmos Clock and strikingly original movements such as the world’s thinnest automatic with a thickness of just 2.35 mm – just to name a few. The thin automatic movement, in particular, was an incredible success, as both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet featured it in wristwatches advertised as being the world’s slimmest self-winding timepieces. During the 1970s and early ’80s, Jaeger-LeCoultre produced a 36-jewel, self-winding calibre for Patek Philippe. Once again, both companies had come full circle.

JLC Today

On a final note, it is worth noting that Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the few companies in Switzerland that still produces its own movements, cases, dials, hands, and bracelets. Virtually every single component in a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch is hand-finished, and produced in-house, and this, in turn, results in strict quality control. As a result, Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are recognised as being among the very finest hand-crafted watches available and evidence of this can be seen in the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre regularly produces such masterpieces as the Reverso Tourbillon and Reverso Minute Repeater. There is also the Master Control series of watches which boasts 1,000 hours of testing and assembly at the patient hands of a master watchmaker.

In any event, if you are contemplating the purchase of a Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch, you’ve made an excellent choice. It’s a highly prestigious and well-respected brand with a long and wonderful history, as well as a proven track record.

This information is courtesy of CHS – Certification Horologerie Suisse.

The Longines story began in 1832 when Auguste Agassiz moved to the tiny Swiss town of Saint-Imier and started to work for Raiguel Jeune, a trader in watch parts. In 1847, Auguste Agassiz became the sole owner of the business. In 1852, his nephew, Ernest Francillon, joined the company, finally taking over from his uncle in 1862.

In 1867, the company produced its first movement (L20A). Moreover, Ernest Francillon was awarded a bronze medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris for his novel timepiece, its lever movements being wound and set by the crown. By 1874, the company had already sent out its first circular, warning customers against counterfeit movements. On July 19th, 1880, Ernest Francillon registered the original Longines brand and its symbol, the winged hourglass. Since then, the brand has gone on to take ten Grand Prix and 28 Gold Medals that have never been equalled by any other watch manufacturer.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Longines was amongst the first brands to produce mechanical wristwatches, an innovation that initiated a significant reorganisation of watch production systems during the 1920s and the 1930s. As early as 1910, Longines watches began to lose their round silhouette, exploring new rectangular and square-shaped models. Around the same time, in 1912, Longines entered the world of gymnastics at the Swiss Federal Gymnastics Meeting in Basel. Here, the Swiss company introduced automatic timing and the use of an electromechanical system with start and finish tapes.

The 1920s and 1930s were dedicated to elegance, as was shown in the first Longines advertising campaign in 1927 and its production of watches decorated with diamonds, sapphires and precious stones. In this same year, there was also the release of the first non-stop transatlantic flight made by Charles A. Lindbergh, which was timed by a Longines watch. Just one year before, in 1926, the company had taken part in the first International Horse Show in Geneva. This marked the start of a long, and still very much alive relationship between equestrian sports and the Longines brand.

In the 1940s, the calibre L22A was created and in the 1950s, Longines launched the communication campaign “Science and elegance”, as well as becoming the official timekeeper for the Winter Olympic Games in Oslo. During the 1970s, despite the contemporary quartz revolution, Longines searched for inspiration in its past, producing a series of very important models: Flore Marine (1970), Longines Kleopatra (1975), and Longines Volubilis (1978). In 1972, Paris-based French designer, Serge Manzon, designed a series of solid silver watches, especially for Longines. In 1982, two years after the creation of Caliber L960, Longines celebrated its 150th anniversary with a collection of ultra-slim watches called Longines Agassiz, in honour of the company’s founder.

In 1982, Longines’ partnership with the Ferrari Formula 1 racing team began. In 1984, Longines launched its ‘Conquest’ line fitted with the VHP (Very High Precision) movement developed by Longines. The 1990s were characterised by the steel and ultra-slim watches of La Grande Classique collection, and by the Dolce Vita collection. These years also marked the launch of the advertising campaign ‘Elegance is an Attitude’, featuring legendary stars of the silver screen such as Audrey Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart.

This information is courtesy of CHS – Certification Horologerie Suisse.

Today, seven out of ten people throughout the world are familiar with the Omega watch brand – a truly amazing rate of awareness to which few other watch brands can lay claim. The reason behind this success is said to be the reliably fine quality of every Omega watch. From its modest beginnings in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in 1848, the assembly workshop, which was created by 23-year-old Louis Brandt, gradually gained renown. Louis Brandt assembled key-wound precision pocket watches from parts supplied by local craftsmen.

After Louis Brandt’s death in 1879, his two sons Louis-Paul and Cesar, took over control of the business. In 1880, the two brothers rented a floor in a Bienne building to set up a modern watch production unit. Among the names they chose for their watches were “Helvetia”, “Jura”, “Celtic”, “Gurzelen”, and “Patria”. With the introduction of the “Labrador” lever movement in 1885, the watches achieved an accuracy of +/- 30 seconds a day. The company’s banker, Henri Rieckel, suggested the name “Omega” for the new watch. The overwhelming success of the “Omega” name led to it being adopted as the sole name for all the watches of the company from 1903.

Louis-Paul and César Brandt both died in 1903, leaving one of Switzerland’s largest watch companies – with 240,000 watches produced annually and employing 800 people – in the hands of four young people, the oldest of whom was Paul-Emile Brandt. The Omega name made its sports debut at the international ballooning contest for the Gordon Bennett Cup in 1909. Britain’s Royal Flying Corps decided to choose Omega watches in 1917 as their official timekeepers for its combat units, as did the American army in 1918. Omega had their first victory at the observatory timing competitions in Neuchâtel in 1919, with their chronometers winning the competition. The economic difficulties brought on by the First World War would lead him to work actively from 1925 toward the union of OMEGA and Tissot, then to their merger in 1930 within the group SSIH. By the seventies, SSIH had become Switzerland’s number one producer of finished watches and number three in the world.

In 1957, the “Omega Speedmaster” was created. After rigorous evaluation and testing, NASA decided to use the “Speedmaster Professional” chronograph wristwatch in 1965 as its official timekeeper. In 1967, the one-millionth chronometer was certified. On the 21st of July, 1969, astronaut Neil Armstrong became the first man to step on the moon. As he made the famous steps quoting “one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind”, he was wearing his Omega Speedmaster Professional chronograph. In 1972, Omega received its two-millionth chronometer certificate.

Following the severe monetary crisis and recession of 1975 to 1980, SSIH was bailed out by the banks in 1981. In 1985, the holding company was taken over by a group of private investors. Immediately renamed SMH, Societe suisse de microélectronique et d’horlogerie, the new group achieved rapid growth and success to become today’s top watch producer in the world. Named ‘Swatch Group’ in 1998, it now includes Blancpain and Breguet. Dynamic and flourishing, OMEGA remains one of its most prestigious flagship brands.

This information is courtesy of CHS – Certification Horologerie Suisse.

Zenith is somewhat unique because of the rich history that is behind every single watch that is created within the marketplace. It was founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot, a man who has become almost mythical in terms of the reverence he is paid by everyone who is involved in the industry. Usually, a figure from an opposing company is downplayed by members of the competition, especially if that figure was responsible for the creation of an entire node within the framework of the opposing companies. In the case of Georges, however, he had such a major contribution to the overall industry that it is impossible for anyone to insult him.

What exactly was his contribution? He was the first person to come up with the idea of a company dedicated to watchmaking. His idea involved bringing a number of different artisans under one roof to create timepieces with one brand, and at the age of just twenty-two, he became an industry giant. Calling his company a word that indicates the highest point in the universe, the company has continually reinvented the idea of timepieces.

By 1875, Georges had nearly one thousand employees who were producing both clocks and watches. By 1896, the world had noticed the calibre of his work and the company began to regularly receive awards for it. In 1920, Zenith reached a significant milestone – they had produced two million timepieces, a milestone that propelled the brand to begin opening offices in every part of the world.

By 1969, the company had another huge breakthrough; when they offered the El Primero to the market, they had the very first automatic integrated chronograph. It remains the fastest automatic model in the world as well as the most precise. These days, the company has nearly two thousand awards, hundreds of branches across the world and some of the most famous styling. Despite the fact that they changed ownership in the late nineties to the LVMH Group, they continue to be one of the most exciting companies on the market today.

If there is one thing that the men’s and women’s watches created by this company are known for, it would have to be the artistic flair that is added to every single watch. In fact, the company itself makes no bones about hiding that flair and they are boldly willing to make wild artistic decisions that, over the course of history, have resulted in new watch fashions coming out onto the market and completely changing the landscape in regards to what is considered the norm in watch fashions of the time. In fact, their website plainly states that their goal is to be known for this flair, and they delight in their success at it. Each new model is carefully examined by analysts and critics alike, hoping to push forward the boundaries of artistic license.

When this artistic side of the company is taken into account and really examined closely, one finds a number of other things they are known for that stem from the artistic flair that they put into a number of their different products. An example of this would be their novelty products which are usually good for a large amount of admiration from the industry when they are released. This is not to say that every men’s watch released onto the market will be a novelty item, but rather it is to say that in general, when the company decides to release novelty items they are received well enough that people eagerly look forward to the next novelty release.

Another thing that Zenith watches are known for is their overall durability. There are many high-end watchmakers in this particular industry that make products that are beautiful to behold and keep time exceptionally well when they are removed from the box. However, all too often, those very same products have a very short shelf-life, causing people endless grief when their product breaks down just outside of the warranty date and they have to go and purchase another product in order to replace the one that they just lost. With most men’s watches that are also high-end products, this is not really a problem as the customers are willing to purchase new products every couple of years, but the fact that this company creates durable products anyway is something that has always gained them a lot of goodwill.

This information is courtesy of CHS – Certification Horologerie Suisse.

An interesting fact you may or may not know about International Watch Company (IWC), is that it is possibly the only major Swiss watch company whose founder was an American! During the 1860s, three manufacturers dominated the American watch industry: Elgin, Howard and Waltham.

Combined, these firms produced upwards of 100,000 pocket watches. However, times were changing in the industry as pocket watches went from being a status symbol that only the wealthiest individuals could afford, to an everyday item available to the middle class. As a result, production methods had to be improved, for example, most parts for watches were still being made by hand. Costs were also high because the pool of available qualified watchmakers was relatively small.

In Boston, Massachusetts, Florentine Ariosto Jones, who had worked in the American watch industry for a number of years, keenly observed the failure of Aaron Lufkin Dennison, a leader in the watch business whose efforts to move production to Switzerland to benefit from lower wages and Swiss watchmaking know-how, failed miserably. Undaunted, Jones took over the failed enterprise and soon set up his own company in Switzerland. His plan was to assemble watches in Switzerland and import them into the United States – hence the name International Watch Company.

Fortuitously, Jones made the acquaintance of one Johann Heinrich Moser, a watchmaker whose hometown of Schaffhausen was conveniently located near the Rhine. Following Moser’s advice, a dam was built in order to harness the power of the mighty river and generate hydro-power, which would drive the machines used in manufacturing facilities throughout Schaffhausen. A watch factory was built in Schaffhausen to take advantage of the cheap hydro-power, and production commenced in 1868.

Despite the company’s unique business plan, the enterprise was doomed from the start. For one thing, Jones had trouble selling the watches in America due to a high tariff on imported finished watches. An even worse problem; Jones was undercapitalised and encountered technical problems with the machines. By 1875, he was scrambling to find new investors, amid allegations by disgruntled stockholders that the company was on the verge of collapse. Inevitably, the company filed for bankruptcy and Jones was forced to relinquish control of his company.

A Swiss consortium acquired IWC’s shares and put another American, Frederick Seeland, at its helm. Although the company’s fortunes improved somewhat, the improvement was not deemed sufficient enough. As a result, the company was put up for sale again. This time, one of IWC’s stockholders, Johannes Raschenbach-Vogel, bought the company at auction for 280,000 francs. Technical achievements and increased sales soon followed with the production of the first pocket watches with digital time indication, as well as the development of the famous Calibre 52 movement, which at the time was quite revolutionary in its concept and construction.

Although the company experienced significant growth, following World War One, IWC’s fortunes again hit rock bottom under the proprietorship of Ernst Homberger-Rauschenbach. Fortunately, a major modernisation effort paid off when the advent of World War II resulted in increased military demand. Therefore, it was during World War II that IWC created the first oversized anti-magnetic pilot’s watch, followed by the famous Mark X that featured IWC’s new in-house movement, Calibre 83. In 1944, IWC had a close call when the Allies mistakenly bombed Schaffhausen, but as luck would have it, the factory narrowly escaped destruction.

In the aftermath of the war, International Watch Company lived up to its name and became a company of international scope. Exports to the United States increased and the brand became best known for its speciality watches, such as the Mark XI and Ingenieur – the first automatic IWC with a soft-iron inner case that protected the movement against magnetic fields – as well as for its elegant dress watches. Needless to say, vintage IWCs from the 1940s and ’50s are highly collectable today and in great demand, as they are somewhat under-priced compared to other high-end watch brands of that era.

In closing, the company’s philosophy is best summed up by IWC’s current CEO, Michael Sarp, who recently stated, “We shall produce watches of the highest quality with unique technical and design characteristics and thus continue to experience the pleasures of innovation.” If you should have an opportunity to examine an IWC, you will quickly realise that Mr Sarp speaks the truth.

This information is courtesy of CHS – Certification Horologerie Suisse.

Karat	Fraction of gold	Percentage of gold
9k	9/24	37.5%
10k	10/24	41.67%
14k	14/2	58.33%
18k	18/24	75.00%

FAQs

Most Commonly Asked Questions

Further reading for curious minds

Wearing, storing & maintaining your watch

Restorations and repairs

Watch Knowledge

Background reading on the brands we specialise in

FAQs

Most Commonly Asked Questions

How do I know that your watches are all absolutely genuine?

Are your watches checked over and properly serviced?

Why should I buy a watch from Vintage Gold Watches?

I’m new to the world of vintage watches, how can you help me?

Where can I see your customer feedback?

Can I arrange to view a watch in person before buying it?

Can you help me source a vintage watch?

What guarantees do you offer on your watches?

What payment methods do you accept?

Are your prices negotiable?

Are there any savings or discounts available?

Are your watches insured?

Is it possible to reserve a watch?

I’ve found the watch I want but I would prefer a different strap

Why are the prices of your watches cheaper on your website compared to Chrono24 or eBay?

What days and times can I contact you?

Do you buy watches or offer a part exchange or a buy-back service?

What are your shipping options?

I'm overseas, can you send my item as a ‘gift’ or ‘declare a lower value’ for customs purposes?

What will I receive along with my purchase?

What happens if I have a problem with the watch?

What are your favourite watches?

My heart is set on one of your watches, but my mind is telling me to resist! Give me some good reasons to buy a vintage gold watch.

Further reading for curious minds

Wearing, storing & maintaining your watch

How do I open my watch case in order to see the movement?

Can I go swimming with a vintage watch?

How should I store my vintage watches?

Restorations and repairs

I've heard that vintage watch dials should remain untouched and left to age gracefully…what’s your opinion?

Tell me some more about watch dials

Should I restore the dial of my vintage watch?

Watch Knowledge

So far, all of my watches have been battery-powered. Can you explain 'automatic' and 'manual' or hand-wound watches to me?

What may I reasonably expect, in terms of accuracy, from my vintage wristwatch?

What is the difference between a chronograph and a chronometer?

What is a “bumper” automatic movement?

Does a higher number of jewels in a watch indicate increased value and better quality?

What is the difference between a waterproof and a water-resistant watch?

What is the difference between rose gold, pink gold, yellow gold or white gold, and does it affect the value of the watch?

Can you explain about gold measurements and how different colour golds are made?

What do the markings on a watch movement and watch case signify?

Why do gold Swiss and American watches fabricated for the US market tend to be 14ct while Swiss watches destined for the rest of the world tend to be 18ct?

Background reading on the brands we specialise in

Can you tell me more about Rolex as a brand?

Can you tell me more about Jaeger LeCoultre as a brand?

Can you tell me more about Longines as a brand?

Can you tell me more about Omega as a brand?

Can you tell me more about Zenith as a brand?

Can you tell me more about IWC as a brand?