Girard-Perregaux
In the novel “From Russia With Love”, and no less than on the first page, author Ian Fleming wrote, “a gold Girard-Perregaux on a Brown Crocodile strap is one of the typical membership badges of the rich man’s club”. More recently, the company has worked closely with Ferrari, releasing chronographs under both brand names and the company has a wide catalogue of current watches catering to the taste and budget of almost every discerning watch buyer.
This Swiss Haute Horlogerie Manufacturer recently celebrated its 225th anniversary, which makes it one of the oldest remaining watch companies still engaged in continuous production. Girard-Perregaux is credited with many firsts and claims to fame, having registered over 100 patents and won numerous exhibition and observatory prizes and medals.
As early as 1840, the founder, Constant Girard, began to develop the innovative concept of a gentleman’s wristwatch and later in 1879, his wristwatches were ordered personally by Emperor Wilhelm I for officers in the German Imperial Navy. Two thousand were made, making this the first large-scale commercial production of wrist-watches in history.
In the 1940s, the company produced a highly popular range of sports and military watches using the strapline “For Active Service”. These waterproof, shockproof, antimagnetic and luminous watches carried names such as the ‘Mermaid’, ‘Sea Hawk’, ‘Amphibian’ and the ‘M.D. Waterproof’. The ‘Sea Hawk’ remained popular up to the end of the 1960s when it was withdrawn. However, this model has recently been revived as a highly competent, professional divers watch.
Description
In 1956, Girard-Perregaux introduced its first automatic watch, the ultra-modern Calibre 21 ‘Gyromatic’, a 39 Jewel movement which used a highly advanced Gyrotrone automatic reverse gear winding system. Its very thin design made possible the production of extremely thin automatic watches for the first time which caused a sensation across the watch industry due to its efficiency and brilliance.
Here we have a wonderful ‘retro-modern’ example from 1965.
The Movement
Girard-Perregaux is famous within the Swiss watch industry for the technical innovations and craftsmanship expressed in all its movements and the Gyromatic Calibre 21, 39 Jewel movement is certainly no exception. In fact, it is regarded by many as one of the finest series of automatic movements ever produced.
The “Gyromatic” system replaced ratchet wheels with roller-equipped unidirectional clutches. The resulting construction was simple, reliable and efficient. What’s more, its compactness paved the way for slim, sleek and stylish designs. The “Gyromatic” has since demonstrated its excellence in thousands of Girard-Perregaux timepieces including the top-of-the-line “Gyromatic HF” (for high frequency) the self-winding watch equivalent of a “Formula 1” race car. This development marked GP’s major contribution to mechanical watch design.
This 39 Jewel, Calibre 21 movement has just completed a full restoration by our vintage specialist watchmaker. The chrome and zinc plated movement is in remarkably clean condition and working perfectly following a thorough overhaul and service. This involves dismantling the watch to all its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Girard-Perregaux parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment before final testing and calibration in 5 positions. The watch winds, sets and runs accurately and reliably and is now running strongly and accurately within +5 seconds/day. This is outstanding for a watch movement of this age and has been confirmed on our electronic Timegrapher. The power reserve of this watch is 35 hours. We are therefore more than confident in offering 12 months’ warranty with this watch movement*.
The movement is correctly signed ‘Girard-Perregaux’, ‘Swiss’ and ‘Thirty Nine 39 Jewels’ and carries the calibre number 21, along with the serial number 3209908 which dates this watch to 1965.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.
The Dial
This stunning dial is a forerunner of the more avant-garde designs which were to follow in the 1970s. It is reminiscent of its time when changes in popular culture and the incredible excitement surrounding space flight and the Apollo moon missions influenced all aspects of design, so it is no coincidence that many wristwatches changed around this time to reflect this. This was, of course, a period of huge advances in technology, including the first commercial use of computers in larger organisations, satellite communications and supersonic flight.
The style of the watch here is what we refer to today as retro-modern. Futuristic, without being over the top or outlandish. The amazing starburst silver-white dial catches the light wonderfully, as we have tried to demonstrate in the photographs. Faceted pink gilt cubic block hour indices are matched with the original restored ‘Dauphine’ hands.
The dial is simply signed ‘Girard-Perregaux’ and ‘Gyromatic’ with ’39 Jewels’, below.
This is the original dial, restored to the highest standards by our dial restorers who are considered to be the best in the UK.
The Case
The 18ct Pink Gold case is of an elegant two-piece design and is a relatively slim automatic watch for the time. The rarer pink gold case was produced with equal care and quality and craftsmanship as the movement and so it is of the very finest quality. The case measures 34mm in diameter, excluding the crown.
The case is in remarkable condition considering its age and is very close to perfect in fact, with no dings, scratches or dimples visible to the naked eye. The case-back is of full thickness and has never been engraved. Inside the case-back is signed ‘Girard-Perregaux 1791’ and ‘Swiss’ and externally it carries Swiss 18ct hallmarks and the reference number 1350.
Note, as ever our standard advice applies, vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap & Buckle
A high-quality burgundy lizard strap has been fitted, with a pink gold-plated buckle. Please note, we feel this strap matches the watch nicely, however, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin, and we can obtain most other types and colours at short notice.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, all the numbers and markings on the watch are correct, dating the watch to circa 1965.
A detailed written receipt with 12 months’ warranty* and a separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
The high-quality hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included with this watch.
In Conclusion
This is a wonderful and highly significant vintage automatic watch from one of horology’s most highly respected names which will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something to use, wear, treasure and enjoy! It will make an excellent evening wear dress watch, as well as be a practical, accurate and reliable timepiece to use on a day to day basis if you wish.
The higher profile of Girard-Perregaux during the past 10 years has helped to make vintage Girard-Perregaux watches become more collectable and investable and we feel this is well overdue. The sheer quality and rarity of great examples such as this, mean values are climbing. This watch will, therefore, make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. As each year passes and the world market for vintage watches expands, availability will become more limited so prices are surely destined to climb ever higher!
A word about our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very best quality watches we can find before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are a number of well-known stores in West London which are very successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you wish to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or International Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please note, we welcome part exchanges and if you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.
We will be happy to Service Repair or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions, please call our landline on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
We will be happy to answer any questions and offer advice about this or any of our watches listed for sale. If you would like some general advice regarding any aspect of vintage watches, including buying, selling, or collecting, we will also be very happy to hear from you. We await your call!
Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches!
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
