Girard-Perregaux Cal.A.S.1525 9ct, Guilloche Gold Dial, Calatrava 1960

Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux is one of the true greats of the Swiss watch industry and one which long held one of the most glamorous images in high-end watchmaking. The company developed and produced in-house, some of the most technically advanced watches ever made – notably Tourbillons, Minute Repeaters and other refined Grande Complication models. It was one of the many great Swiss watch companies to struggle through the ‘Quartz Crisis’, but is now back in its stride once again and commanding the respect it rightfully deserves.

In the novel “From Russia With Love”, and no less than on the first page, author Ian Fleming wrote, “a gold Girard-Perregaux on a Brown Crocodile strap is one of the typical membership badges of the rich man’s club”. More recently, the company has worked very closely with Ferrari, releasing chronographs under both brand names.

The company recently celebrated its 225th anniversary, making it one of the oldest remaining watch companies continuously engaged in production. Girard-Perregaux is credited with many firsts and claims to fame, having registered over 100 patents and won numerous exhibition medals and observatory prizes. Notably, a gold medal presented to Constant Girard for a Tourbillon at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867, then again in 1889, the famous Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Constant Girard’s masterpiece and the fruit of many years labour, received the gold medal at another Universal Exhibition in Paris.

As early as 1840, one of the founders, Constant Girard, began to develop the innovative concept of wearing watches on the wrist and later in 1879, his wristwatches were ordered personally by Emperor Wilhelm I for officers in the German Imperial Navy. Two thousand were made, making this the first large-scale commercial production of wristwatches in history.

In recognition of its ongoing quest for precision, in 1905 Girard-Perregaux was elected a permanent member of the jury at the largest international watch fairs.

The golden age for Girard-Perregaux really began in the 1920s, continuing through to the 1970s, seeing the company grow rapidly in both its expertise and strength across Europe, Asia, and the Americas. In the 1940s, the company produced a popular range of sports and military watches using the strapline “For Active Service”. These waterproof, shockproof, antimagnetic and luminous watches carried names such as the Mermaid, Sea Hawk, Amphibian and the ‘M.D. Waterproof’. The Sea Hawk remained popular up to the end of the 1960s when it was withdrawn. However, this model has recently been revived as a highly competent, professional divers watch.

In 1956, Girard-Perregaux introduced its first automatic watch, the Calibre 21, 39 Jewels ‘Gyromatic’ which used a highly advanced Gyrotrone automatic reverse gear winding system, causing a sensation across the watch industry. The Gyromatic was continually developed until in 1966, the Girard-Perregaux Gyromatic Chronometer HF was launched. This was the first ever high-frequency movement with a balance vibrating at 36,000 times an hour, or 10 beats per second. In 1966 this unrivalled movement was awarded the Centenary Prize by the Neuchatel Observatory and brought what is now recognised as true precision to watchmaking for the first time. A year later in 1967, 70% of all the Chronometer certificates issued by the Swiss Neuchatel Observatory went to Girard-Perregaux’ Chronometer HF models. These were some of the most accurate mechanical wristwatches of all time.

Description

A simply stunning 9ct Girard-Perregaux gentleman’s dress watch in a large 34mm watch case.

The movement is stunning and very ‘state of the art’ for the period. As can be seen, it has been very well cared for and in sparkling condition. The dial is beautifully decorated and yet it remains simple and elegant. The colour and style of the dial is unusual today, but very much of its period, with its classic style and beautiful Guilloche effect decoration.

The Dial

This amazing gold dial has a wonderfully engraved swirling guilloche effect which catches the light wonderfully, as we have tried to demonstrate in the accompanying photographs. This is otherwise a very simple and elegant dial and carries applied thin gilt ‘baton’ hour indices which are matched with the original ‘Dauphine’ style hands. The absence of a seconds hand adds the typical Calatrava look originally introduced by Patek Philippe, which established a reference standard for the gent’s dress watch in the 1930s and ’40s.

The dial is simply signed ‘Girard-Perregaux’ with ‘Swiss Made’ at the very bottom of the dial below the 6′.

This is the original, unrestored and untouched dial, which is in tip-top condition.

The Movement

Girard-Perregaux is famous within the Swiss watch industry for the technical innovations and craftsmanship expressed in all of its movements and here we have an excellent example.

The Girard-Perregaux Calibre A.S.1525 movement has just completed a full restoration by our vintage specialist watchmaker. The beryllium bronze plated movement is in sparkling clean condition and working perfectly following a thorough overhaul and service. This involves dismantling the watch to all its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Girard-Perregaux parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment before final testing and calibration in 5 positions. The watch winds, sets and runs accurately and reliably and is now running strongly and accurately within +6 seconds/day. This is outstanding for a watch movement of this age and has been confirmed on our electronic Timegrapher. The power reserve of this watch is 42 hours.

The movement is signed ‘Girard-Perregaux’, ‘Swiss’, and ’17 Jewels’ along with the calibre number 2529180.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.

The Case

This 9ct yellow gold example was produced with equal care and attention to quality and craftsmanship as the movement and so it is of the finest quality. It is of an elegant two-piece design and only 7mm in depth, including the lens, making this a very slim watch.

The case measures 34mm in diameter excluding the original crown. The case is in remarkable condition considering its age, very close to perfect in fact, with no dings, scratches or dimples visible to the naked eye and the case-back is of full thickness and has never been engraved. Inside the case-back, all is correct and as expected, signed: ‘Modele Depose’, ‘A.S.M’. with 9ct hallmarks and the reference numbers 227 and 248951.

Please note, as ever our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

A high-quality brown Crocodile strap has been fitted, along with a gold plated buckle. Please note, we feel this strap matches the watch nicely, however, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin, and we can obtain most other types and colours at short notice.

The Box and Papers

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included with this watch.

In Conclusion

The higher profile of Girard-Perregaux during the past 10 years has helped vintage Girard-Perregaux watches become more collectable and investable and we feel this is well overdue. The sheer quality and rarity of great examples such as this, mean values are climbing. This watch will therefore make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. As each year passes and the world market for vintage watches expands, availability will become more limited so prices are surely destined to climb ever higher!

This is a wonderful vintage gold dress watch from one of horology’s most prestigious names which will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something to use, wear, treasure and enjoy! It will make an excellent evening wear dress watch, as well as a practical, accurate and reliable timepiece to use on a day to day basis if you wish.

A word about our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very best quality watches we can find before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are a number of well known stores in West London which are very successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you wish to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or International Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.

Please note, we welcome part exchanges and if you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.

We will be happy to service, repair or restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions we will be delighted to receive your call at 020 7727 7095. If calling from overseas +44 207 727 7095.

We will be happy to answer any questions and offer advice about this or any of our watches listed for sale. If you would like some general advice regarding any aspect of vintage watches, including buying, selling, or collecting, we will also be very happy to hear from you. We await your call!

Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches!

Thank you.