Description
It is said that owning a vintage IWC is something everyone with a serious interest in vintage watches should aspire to. A strong statement perhaps, but a little time spent researching IWC and their 1950s & ’60s watches, will very likely lead one to the same conclusion. In essence, this is because during the 1950s and ’60s, IWC determined they would manufacture some of the very best watches ever made and quite simply, this is what it achieved. The craftsmanship, technical excellence and sheer beauty of their exquisite movements and cases, manufactured during the ‘golden age’ of watch-making, has never been beaten – perhaps equalled occasionally, but never beaten!
An IWC is often referred to as a ‘watchmaker’s watch’. This is simply because watchmakers love them, both to work on and to own. This is due to the design, technical excellence and particularly the sheer beauty of their watch movements.
Description
This beautiful IWC watch sports a truly iconic movement. Designed and built to military specifications, the Cal.89 has certainly stood the test of time, remaining in production for both civilian and military use for over 40 years!
The Dial
Vintage IWC watch dials are so distinctive, their style can almost be considered a trademark in itself. Clean and simple, they could not be clearer in their singularity of purpose which is simply to tell the time. This is undoubtedly due to the strong associations IWC had with military timepieces during and after the second world war. The resulting design became an interesting combination of the Bauhaus and 1950s military and dress watch style.
The stunning ivory-cream dial is decorated with gilt ‘baton’ hour indices, paired with original, restored, yellow gold ‘lance’ hands. It is signed with the infinitely more attractive early International Watch Company, Schaffhausen signature with ‘Swiss’ at the bottom.
This is the original dial which has been restored to the very highest standards by our dial restorers who are considered to be the best in the UK.
The Movement
Many consider the IWC Cal.89 to be one of the great hand-wound movements of the 20th century. The movement was originally developed in 1946 by the genius in watchmaking, Albert Pellaton, who designed this movement to meet the most demanding and highly rigorous specifications of the British Ministry of Defence. Each movement went through a 44-day testing period in five positions and ranging in temperatures from -5° to +46° C. It was produced for military use, continuously for over 30 years and became ‘The standard’ for the military-grade time-only wristwatch. The movement also became an IWC mainstay for the commercial market, remaining in production until the mid-1990s.
The craftsmanship and sheer beauty of IWC movements is extraordinary. Examples of the extra care and attention taken can be seen in the finishing applied to the bridges or plates, characterised by a series of arc-grained bars etched lightly onto bridges or plates, creating a wave-like effect. This is known as a ‘Geneva Wave’ finish. Furthermore, all the edges of the plates are beautifully bevelled which is very difficult and time-consuming to achieve. Lastly, each of the ruby jewels is set in brass ‘chantons’ which are then screwed into the plates, rather than setting the jewel directly into the plates. These are just the kind of details which set IWC apart.
This movement has been fully overhauled by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the watch down to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine IWC parts then careful reassembly and adjustment before final calibration in 5 positions. This watch, therefore, winds, sets and runs accurately and reliably, within +13 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions and also has a 44-hour power reserve when fully wound. Please keep in mind this is outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering 12 months warranty with this watch movement*.
The movement is all correctly signed ‘International Watch Co’ and ‘Swiss’ with both the calibre number and the serial number 1297564 which date this watch to 1952.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Case
The very high quality, 9ct yellow gold watch case measures 34mm in diameter, excluding the crown. This three-piece case is in the typically 1950s style with classic lines, attractive sweeping lugs and a flat rounded edge case-back. The high polished, full thickness case-back has never been inscribed. This watch has been exceptionally well cared for and the main case body, bezel and case-back are all in beautiful condition with no scratches, dings or other damage visible to the naked eye, therefore after careful inspection, the case has simply required a professional clean and gentle hand-polish, to bring back the almost new look of the watch.
The case was made for IWC by David Shackman & Sons in the UK who made watch cases for many of the top Swiss watch manufacturers at this time. Shackman and Sons in London and Dennison and Sons in Birmingham both produced top quality cases for almost all of the watch brands you see on this website.
Inside the case-back all the markings are correct and as expected. Signed ‘DS&S’ for David Shackman & Sons, the case-back also carries London 9ct hallmarks and the reference number 023.
As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap and Buckle
The watch is fitted with a vintage brown calf leather strap and a matching gold-plated buckle which we feel suits the watch perfectly. However, if a different colour or different style strap is preferred please let us know and we will do our best to provide your choice, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin and can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of 18mm straps if you wish here.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct and indicate the date of manufacture to 1952.
Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.
The hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included in the sale.
In Conclusion
This is a truly first class example of an early 1950s IWC gentleman’s dress watch which is ready to wear and completely practical for everyday use. If treated with care, it will make an excellent investment and heirloom piece. IWC will always command huge respect in the high-end watch market and consequently, prices are always rock solid. We are therefore sure this will make a great acquisition for any collector to wear, or simply to treasure and enjoy!
A word about our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are very successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by UK bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.
Please note, we welcome part exchanges, along with outright purchases of similar watches for us to restore, service and list. We can also offer Watch Servicing, Watch Repair & Watch Restoration. Please see here.
If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
We await your call.
Finally, please enjoy some time viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
