Jaeger-LeCoultre
Since the founding of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1833, the company has had a very inventive history, developing over 1,249 mechanical calibres, registering 400+ patents and playing a tremendous role in the development of the industry as a whole. Whether it is the keyless pocket watch, calibre 101, or the iconic Reverso, it would be difficult to imagine a historical account of watchmaking without the mention of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The company has always been a true ‘Manufacturer’ of the finest quality watch movements. This is unusual because more often than not, high-end brands such as Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin have bought in their movements for particular needs. For example, in 1967 when Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin needed an ultra-thin automatic movement, it was to Jaeger-LeCoultre they turned, to produce it for them. Furthermore, the exquisite Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal.920, is still in production and in use by both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet today.
Description
A simply stunning, fully restored Jaeger-LeCoultre gentleman’s automatic dress watch in 9ct yellow gold from 1955. As can be seen, the dial design is highly elegant and typically from the 1950s with beautiful hour indices and a subsidiary seconds dial. Its Calibre P812 bumper movement is very highly regarded for its accuracy and reliability, being one of the highest quality automatic movements made by JLC at the time. This was on par with the very best available from any Swiss manufacturer.
The Dial
The simple, classic, understated and beautifully well-balanced dial is pure elegance and style. All in fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre has always represented.
The ivory-cream dial is furnished with ‘arrowhead’ and ‘baton’ hour indices matched by original restored ‘Dauphine’ hands. The ivory-cream of the dial contrasts beautifully with the case and hands. This is classic vintage dress watch dial design at its best. Simple, elegant, and just right, something many contemporary watch dials fail to achieve.
The dial is simply signed ‘Jaeger-LeCoultre’ and ‘Automatic’ with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom of the dial.
This is the original dial which has been restored to the highest standards by the best dial restorers in the UK.
The Movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre movements are amongst the highest quality and top tier of most highly regarded Swiss watch manufacturers. The movement used in this watch is the Jaeger LeCoultre calibre P812, introduced in 1955, which is a superb 17 jewel example of a classic ‘bumper’ automatic. A bumper self-winding movement is wound by means of an oscillating rotor that travels through a 180 degree arc, being arrested by buffer springs that then bounce the rotor back in its original direction. The bounce can just be felt if one rotates the watch slowly from side to side, but in normal use, one is seldom conscious of its ‘pulse’. Indeed it is quite an endearing character of the vintage watch.
This is the original movement, which as can be seen, is in sparkling condition having just been fully overhauled and serviced by our Master Watchmaker. This involves complete disassembly of the entire watch movement, close inspection of all critical parts under high magnification and then replacement where necessary, using only original manufacturer parts. The following stage is lubrication using individually specified lubricants for differing parts of the movement and careful re-assembly before regulating / timing. The watch winds and sets smoothly and is currently keeping accurate time, consistently, to within 8 seconds per day! This is outstanding for any vintage watch of this age. We therefore we have no hesitation in offering this watch with our 12 months warranty*. This movement is signed ‘Jaeger-Le Coultre’ ‘Fab Suisse’ and P812. The movement number Serial Number is 1162481 which dates the watch to 1955**.
*Please note, our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.
The Case
This large sized 34mm multi-faceted watch case is of exceedingly high quality, being constructed in two pieces with a press fit case-back which closes with a pleasingly solid click, indicating a good fit. This is quite a slim case at 10mm in depth and at the time it was made, would have been one of the slimmest watches available to accommodate the automatic movement. Due to the sophisticated case construction with multiple edges and elegant acute profile, the watch sits beautifully on the wrist and looks every bit the quality piece it is. The watch case is in immaculate condition with no signs of wear visible to the naked eye. The inside of the case is correctly signed ‘DTE’ and also carries the correct London UK hallmarks which date the case to 1956**. This is a British market Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. British market watch cases were made for Jaeger Le-Coultre by De Trevars, who were the British importers and case-makers for JLC during the 1950s and 1960s. This is the reason the case is signed ‘DTE’.
The case-back is of full thickness and has never been inscribed. Externally the case-back carries the case serial number 30190.
As ever, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
**Please note, as the movement number dates its manufacture to 1955 and the case was hallmarked in 1956, this watch could rightfully be described as being dated from 1955 or 1956.
The Strap and Buckle
The watch is fitted with a new, high-quality brown crocodile skin strap with a Jaeger-LeCoultre gold plated buckle. If a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown burgundy and black straps in stock, in plain, padded leather, alligator, crocodile or lizard skin.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the movement reference number, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating the watch to 1955 / 1956.
Our detailed ‘Particulars’ document will be included, with our detailed receipt and our 12 months warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
The watch also comes complete with the original Jaeger-LeCoultre presentation box as shown in the photographs.
In Conclusion
This is a simply wonderful vintage gold Jaeger-LeCoultre watch which is much more stylish than a modern equivalent. Even though it is over 60 years old, it is still completely fresh, reliable and practical to wear as your everyday watch, should you wish. Most of all it is a thing of beauty – some may say a ‘work of art’ from one of the most prestigious names in Swiss watch-making. However you wish to view it, this time-piece will make an excellent investment and heirloom piece, as well as be something to treasure, use and enjoy. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold watches grows ever larger, the limited supply allied to high demand means prices will climb ever higher!
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.
If you have any questions please call on Landline 0207 727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.
Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
