Jaeger-LeCoultre
Since its founding in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre has had a highly inventive history, developing over 1,249 mechanical calibres, registering over 400 Patents and playing a tremendous role in the development of the industry as a whole. Whether it is the world’s first keyless watch, its Calibre 101, the Futurematic, the Memovox, or the iconic Reverso, it would be difficult to imagine a historical account of watchmaking without the mention of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
It is not commonly known that Jaeger-LeCoultre, in addition to producing movements for its own watches, has also produced movements for a number of famous watch houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and IWC. Indeed for most of the 20th Century, Jaeger-LeCoultre even supplied bare movements to the great firm of Patek Philippe. The company has always been a true ‘Manufacturer’ of the finest quality watch movements and Jaeger-LeCoultre has always manufactured all its own movements. This is unusual because very often, high-end brands such as Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin would buy in movements for particular needs. For example, in 1967 when Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin needed an ultra-thin automatic movement, it was to Jaeger-LeCoultre they turned, to produce one for them. Furthermore, the exquisite Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920, is still in production and in use today by both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet.
Description
Conceived as a competitor to the hugely successful Omega Seamaster and most likely the Longines Flagship and Zenith Captain, the much rarer Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner was produced in much lower low numbers, just for the U.S. market, for 4 – 5 years between 1958 and 1963. This model was a forerunner to the more famous and also very low production, Jaeger-LeCoultre Geomatic Chronometer, which was produced between 1962 and 1970.
Both the K812 movement and the U.S. manufactured 10ct gold filled case were made to incredibly high standards. It is perhaps for this reason and also to keep the price as reasonably affordable as possible, that the majority of Jaeger-LeCoultre models of the 1950s and ‘60s, including this one, were manufactured in gold-filled cases as opposed to solid gold.
The Dial
The simple, classic, understated and beautifully well-balanced dial is pure elegance and style, all in fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre represents. In line with its model name, the wider bezel and ‘compass’ dial lend a slightly nautical touch, which combines nicely with the purposeful feel of the watch overall. This is classic vintage dress watch dial design at its best. Simple, elegant, and just right, something many contemporary watch dials fail to achieve.
The ivory-cream dial is furnished with ‘arrowhead’ hour indices matched by original restored ‘sword’ hands. The colour of the dial complements the case and hands wonderfully.
This is the original, unrestored and untouched dial which is in outstanding condition for the age of the watch. The hands are also original and unrestored. As you may notice these are a little tarnished, however, we decided that rather than replacing them, it would be best to keep them for the sake of originality. This is because many vintage watch buyers prefer to retain some of the character and charm. Note, the closeup photographs were taken with a very high-resolution camera and professional high power macro lens. These are often unfair on the imperfections on a vintage watch. However, on the wrist, unless you happen to have 20:20 vision and hold the watch 6 inches from the eye, the hands look perfectly fine.
This model was made for the U.S market, hence the dial is signed ‘LeCoultre’ rather than Jaeger-LeCoultre. It is also signed ‘Automatic’ and ‘Master Mariner’ with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom of the dial.
The subsidiary seconds dial at 6, neatly headed ‘Master Mariner’ finishes the ensemble beautifully.
As this dial is in original, unrestored condition, this has been left untouched by our restoration team due to its superb condition. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however we decided in this case to leave it alone, due to its unusual condition and to retain its originality and charm for those who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original untouched condition.
Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.
The Movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre movements are of the highest quality and certainly among the top tier of most highly regarded Swiss watch manufacturers. The movement here is the Jaeger LeCoultre Cal. K812, introduced in 1956. This is a superb 17 jewel example of a classic ‘bumper’ automatic. A bumper self-winding movement is wound by means of an oscillating rotor that travels through a 180-degree arc, arrested by two buffer springs which bounce the rotor back in its original direction. This gentle pulse can just be felt as one rotates the watch slowly from side to side. However, in normal use, one is rarely conscious of it and it is quite an endearing feature of this type of watch.
This is the original movement which as can be seen is in sparkling condition, having just been fully overhauled and serviced by our vintage specialist Watchmaker. This involves complete disassembly to all its component parts, close inspection under high magnification and replacement where necessary using only original manufacturer parts, then careful re-assembly, lubrication, calibration and testing. This watch winds and sets smoothly and is currently keeping accurate time, consistently, to within +3 seconds per day! This is outstanding for any vintage watch of this age. We therefore have no hesitation in offering this watch with our 12 months warranty.*
This movement is signed ‘LeCoultre Co’, ‘Unadjusted Swiss’ and K812. The movement serial number is 1,325,370, dating this watch to 1958.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only included if the list price is paid.
The Case
This large sized 10ct gold filled case measures 35mm in diameter, excluding the original Jaeger-LeCoultre unsigned crown. The watch case is of exceedingly high quality, constructed in two pieces with a screw-down case back. This is a robust waterproof design making this watch perfect for everyday use.
Due to the sophisticated case construction with multiple layers and elegant profile, the watch sits beautifully on the wrist and looks every bit the high-class timepiece it is. The watch case is in excellent condition with only the slightest signs of wear commensurate with the age of the watch and very light, careful use.
Inside of the case is correctly signed ‘Cased and timed in U.S.A. by LeCoultre’ with U.S. 10ct gold filled markings.
The case-back is of full thickness and has never been inscribed. Externally the case-back carries the case serial number 406675.
As ever, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap & Buckle
A soft black leather strap has been fitted along with a Jaeger-LeCoultre gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of 18mm straps here.
Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1958.
Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.
This watch comes complete with a Longines presentation box as shown in the photographs.
Payment and Delivery
If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.
As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.
In Conclusion
A simply wonderful vintage gold Jaeger-LeCoultre watch which is many more times more stylish than a modern equivalent. Even though it is over 60 years old, it is still completely reliable and practical to wear as your everyday watch, should you so wish. Most of all it is a thing of beauty – many may say even a ‘work of art’ from one of the most prestigious names in Swiss watch-making. However you wish to view it, this time-piece will make an excellent investment and heirloom piece, as well as something to wear, use, treasure, and enjoy. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold watches grows ever larger, the limited supply allied to high demand means prices will climb ever higher!
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.
We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
