Description
Here we have a beautiful example of a fully restored, porcelain dial, ladies cocktail watch in 9ct pink gold from 1916. The watch has a superb condition case, very clean fully overhauled and serviced movement and mint condition porcelain dial. The original matching 9ct pink gold bracelet has been re-sprung and is suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes.
It is not so well known that Rolex was actually founded in the UK in London in 1905 and it was not until 1919 that the company transferred its base of operations to Geneva, Switzerland. The company’s founders Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis simply used their initials W&D until around 1910, when they began to use the name Rolex. This particular watch is one of the rare examples which carries both W&D and Rolex trademarks.
The Dial
The original, roman numeral, white porcelain dial is immaculate and in fact, the style is identical to many ladies Rolex watches we have sold over the years. The red ‘12’ is typical of the period and the gold dot minute indices frame the dial beautifully.
These dials do not suffer ageing from sunlight, humidity and pollution in the way more modern dials do, so when found as here, without any cracks, crazing, chips or other damage, they are hugely desirable as they look the same as they did when first produced. Porcelain dials were very difficult and expensive to produce due to the number needing to be rejected following the firing process. Metal dials have always been much easier to produce and as metal dial and lacquer techniques improved, so did their overall quality and appeal. However, Patek Philippe and occasionally others continued to produce porcelain dials in small numbers and these now command a huge premium.
This ‘1 – 12’ roman numeral, porcelain dial with original blued steel hands and gilt dot minute indices is undoubtedly the most sought after dial produced for this watch.
The Case
The original, solid 9ct pink gold case measures 28mm in diameter, excluding the pink gold crown. Opening the hinged case-back reveals the W&D signature and the case serial number 805768, along with UK 9ct hallmarks which date the watch to 1916.
The case is in superb condition, indicating the watch has only seen occasional careful use. Only under very close examination can some of the smallest marks be found, commensurate with the age of this piece.
As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Movement
The original movement here is referred to as a Rolex Rebberg movement and it was this movement which helped to establish Rolex and make the company famous. It was made by the Swiss Aegler company, with whom Rolex formed a partnership. Rebberg is a Swiss district where the factory that produced these movements was located. This movement is a 15 Jewel, 9¾ Ligne, meaning this is the smaller-sized Rolex Rebburg movement. The movement is properly signed ‘Rolex’ and ‘Swiss Made’.
As part of the restoration of this watch, the movement has been overhauled and serviced by our vintage watch specialist watchmaker. This involves dismantling the watch to all its component parts and careful inspection under high magnification, then replacement where necessary with only original parts before careful reassembly and adjustment.
Please note – While Rolex watches of this period are reliable and accurate by the standards of their day, they do need to be treated with some care, so while perfectly suited for special occasions, we would not recommend this watch for everyday use.
The Bracelet
The watch is fitted with its original heavy 9ct pink gold expandable bracelet which has been fully dismantled and completely re-sprung. Please note – this bracelet will expand to a wide range of wrist sizes between 14.5cm – 17cm, or 5.75″ inches to 6.75″ inches i.e. a small to mid/large ladies size wrists.
The Box and Papers
Although there is no original paperwork with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct and date the watch to 1916.
Detailed particulars are included with the receipt, along with our 12 months’ warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will also be provided at the time of sale. This will also include our ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
This watch comes complete with a green suede Rolex purse .
In Conclusion
A rare and functional pink gold ladies cocktail watch which will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something of beauty to use, treasure and enjoy! It will make an excellent investment or family heirloom piece and even though vintage gold watch prices have continued to rise markedly in the past 2-3 years, we still feel fine examples such as this are still undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold watches continues to expand, prices are surely destined to climb ever higher!
We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by UK bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
If you have any questions please call on our Landline 0207 727 7095 or Mobile 07515 949250 or if calling from overseas, on Landline +44 207 727 7095 or Mobile +44 7515 949250.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges.
Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
