Longines
Longines is one of the very oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. The company is also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made, however, it has been treated as something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity until relatively recently. Longines is now rightfully returning towards the elevated status it once held in the pre and post 2nd World War period when it ranked among the very best of Swiss watch manufacturers. It is really only within the past three or four years that Longines vintage watches have risen again to the admiration and popularity they deserve, with values rising by around 15 – 20% per year. On certain models, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre.13ZN chronograph, prices have sky-rocketed!
Description
During the late 1940s and ’50s, pretty much all of the major watch brands, including Rolex, Omega, IWC, Longines, Zenith and Vacheron Constantine, introduced ‘Cioccolatone’ style watches to the market. These were very popular at the time. These rounded square chocolate shaped watches were named ‘Cioccolatone’, from the Italian for chocolate. While a good number were produced, they are seldom seen on the market these days, perhaps because any serious collector of each of the above brands has to have at least one!
Here we have just such an example from 1963 when Longines were competing head to head, and on level terms with the very best watch manufacturers in the world. This watch simply oozes quality and has a beautifully designed heavyweight 18ct Pink Gold case in mint condition along with a beautifully restored ivory cream dial.
At 31mm across the case, this may not seem like a large watch. However, this is deceptive as the case measures 40mm corner to corner, making this comparable to a 36mm diameter round case watch.
The Dial
The beautiful ivory cream dial is simplicity and elegance itself, with pink gilt ‘baton’ hour indices and original restored pink gilt ‘Index’ hands.
This is the kind of effortless style modern era manufacturers are trying to recapture and which we are seeing so often as ‘re-issues’ or ‘heritage editions’.
The dial is simply signed ‘Longines’, with the applied Longines ‘flying hourglass’ brand below, which incidentally is the oldest continuously used brand in watchmaking.
The overall design, style and execution here, as with all Longines dials, is just perfect. Longines has always produced some of the most attractive dials in our eyes and it is not news to regular visitors to this site that we are big admirers of the brand. The dials are masters of understatement and always look ‘just right’.
This is the original dial which has been restored by the best dial restorers in the UK.
The Movement
The watch carries its original Longines Cal.350 automatic movement. This is a highly advanced automatic movement for its day, with 17 jewels, plus 5 in the rotor. It has every contemporary refinement, including a bimetallic balance, a large balance wheel, and Kif-Flector shock resistance. The movement has a running rate of 19,800 beats per hour and a power reserve of 43 hours.
As can be seen, the movement is in absolutely tip-top condition following a thorough overhaul and service by our vintage Longines specialist watchmaker. This means the movement has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected and rebuilt using only original Longines parts where required, then carefully calibrated and tested. Upon return, this watch is now running to within +5 seconds per day! This is absolutely outstanding for any vintage watch of this age.
These movements are very accurate and very reliable, making it completely practical and appropriate for regular everyday use. Our watchmaker has indicated this particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing every 2 to 3 years, we would fully expect this watch to run very happily for many more decades to come! We are therefore very pleased to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement* and servicing in the future, as required.
The movement is signed ‘Longines’, together with ’17 Jewels, Swiss’. Also here is the calibre number 350. All this detail has been painstakingly filled in with 18-carat gold in order to increase its legibility against the background. These points, though minor in themselves, elevate Longines movements of the time to something which is a cut above the rest. The movement also carries the serial number 12256402, dating this watch to 1963.
As always, our standard advice applies: Vintage Watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Case
The large, 18ct pink gold case measures 40mm corner to corner and 31mm in width, so it is the equivalent of a 36mm diameter round case watch. At 8mm in depth, including the lens, this is quite a slim watch considering it is an automatic. However, it is of a solid two-piece construction and very high quality, having been made by Longines in Switzerland.
The case-back is of full thickness and has never been inscribed. The inside of the case-back all is correct and as expected, signed with the Longines brand and Swiss Geneva 18ct hallmarks. The case-back also carries the reference case numbers 7321 3, and 192.
This watch has recently completed a full restoration by our team and is in perfect condition. Even under close examination, there are no scratches, dings or signs of wear visible to the naked eye, leading us to suspect that its previous owner reserved it for special occasion use only.
The Strap & Buckle
A new high-quality brown crocodile strap is fitted, along with a Longines pink gold plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours at short notice.
Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1963.
Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.
This watch comes complete with a high quality hardwood presentation box.
Payment and Delivery
If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.
As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.
In Conclusion
We have always been great admirers of vintage Longines and for many years they have been significantly undervalued. However, this has begun to correct itself in recent years as there is no good reason why these watches should not be much more highly regarded, as these watches technically match or surpass almost all high-end brands. Whatever the reason, they still represent excellent value even though some have been increasing by around 15% – 20% per annum recently.
The watch here is a superb example of a most beautiful vintage Longines in 18ct pink gold. A rare, usable and highly collectable vintage gold gentleman’s dress watch, from one of horology’s most highly respected names which is a thing of beauty, to use, to wear, to treasure and to enjoy!
This watch will also make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. Even though vintage Longines prices are still catching up with, for example, Omega, JLC and Rolex, we are sure fine examples such as this still remain undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold watches continues to expand, availability will become more limited, meaning prices are surely destined to climb ever higher!
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.
We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
