Patek Philippe Cal.9″90 18ct 1939

Patek Philippe – Simply the Finest Watch Money Can Buy

Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment towards perfection means it takes almost year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.

Significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …

– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high-quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch

It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since the first watch was completed in 1839. That is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so detailed, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce some of the more complicated timepieces.

Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the model ref. 1518, the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the model ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the model refs. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.

We, of course, associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but more particularly, understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and total confidence and commitment in everything it does.

Description

A rare, rectanglar-cased late 1930s, 18ct yellow gold Patek Philippe with a beautiful, original, unrestored and untouched honey dial, which also has the beautiful addition of a subsidiary seconds dial. Relatively few square or rectangular shaped Patek Philippe watches have been produced and therefore these case shapes are more exclusive. At 20mm across excluding the crown, this is a small sized gent’s Patek Philippe dress watch for the period.

The Dial

Although this watch is a little over 80 years old, the dial design is so elegant and timeless it could easily be mistaken for a contemporary watch today.

The beautiful Patek Philippe dial carries original gold ‘dauphine’ hands with ‘pencil’ hour indices, along with a subsidiary seconds dial, on a completely original, honey background, all delicately framed by a minute rail track in black. So well balanced, beautifully proportioned and executed to perfection. In harmony with the watch case, the dial speaks of pure class, simple elegance, quality and confidence.

This dial is simply signed with ‘Patek Philippe’ with ‘Geneve’ just below 12.

This dial is completely original, unrestored and untouched and there are some wonderful signs of ageing in the spotting and pitting you see across the dial. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however we decided in this case to leave it alone, due to its unusually good condition and to retain its originality and charm for those who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original untouched condition. While the dial is in excellent condition for the year and many collectors prefer original and untouched dials, if a customer prefers we could restore the dial of this watch back to its original condition, at no extra cost.

Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.

Movement

As can be seen, this movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand just over 80 years ago, and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as one could ever wish. This movement is in A1 condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +8 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions. This is truly outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.

The movement is correctly signed ‘Patek. Philippe & Co.’ and ‘Genève’, with the Calibre number 9″90 and the movement serial number 830367 which dates this watch to 1939.

The Case

This wonderful example is all the more desirable due to it having an 18ct yellow gold rectangular case. As stated earlier, rectangular Patek Philippe watches are rare, due to low production numbers, which make these highly sought after today and the 18ct gold case just adds to the desirability. The case-back nicely follows the contours of the wrist and is beautifully crafted with multiple facets providing a classic look and the beautiful, elegant bezel provides added style to the watch.

Patek Philippe watches have always been conservatively sized and at 20mm across, excluding the crown, this was a typical for the period. However, this watch measures 33mm corner to corner, excluding the lugs and 40mm, including the beautiful straight lugs, making this actually a good-sized watch for this period.

The condition of the two-piece case is outstanding, indicating the watch has seen only light and careful use. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with its two halves pressing together with a very firm click and there are no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case-back is all correctly signed and as expected: ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Fab Suisse’, with Swiss 18ct hallmarks and the case serial number 611725.

Please note – as ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

A high quality matt dark blue lizard strap is fitted, along with a plan gold-plated buckle. Please note, we feel the strap matches the watch nicely, however if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin, however, we can also obtain most types and colours at short notice.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1939.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The high quality hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.

In Conclusion

Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty – to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece. Even though Patek prices continue to rise, we still feel outstanding examples such as this remain grossly undervalued particularly compared to the price of a new Patek Philippe. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage Patek Philippe watches expands, availability will become ever more limited, meaning prices are destined to climb ever higher!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.