Patek Philippe Cal.9″90 18ct 1940 Tiffany Dial

Patek Philippe – Simply the Finest Watch Money Can Buy

Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment towards perfection means it takes almost year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.

Significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …

– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high-quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch

It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since the first watch was completed in 1839. That is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so detailed, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce some of the more complicated timepieces.

Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the model ref. 1518, the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the model ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the model refs. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.

We, of course, associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but more particularly, understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and total confidence and commitment in everything it does.

Description

A rare, rectanglar-cased 1940s, 18ct yellow gold Patek Philippe with a beautiful, Tiffany & Co dial, which also has the beautiful addition of a subsidiary seconds dial. Relatively few square or rectangular shaped Patek Philippe watches have been produced and therefore these case shapes are more exclusive. At 20mm across excluding the crown, this is a small sized gent’s Patek Philippe dress watch for the period.

The Dial

Although this watch is over 80 years old, the dial design is so elegant and timeless it could easily be mistaken for a contemporary watch today.

The beautiful Tiffany & Co dial, carries original gold ‘dauphine’ hands and Breguet 1 – 12 numerals, along with a subsidiary seconds dial, on a silver/grey background, all delicately framed by a minute rail track in black. So well balanced, beautifully proportioned and executed to perfection. In harmony with the watch case, the dial speaks of pure class, simple elegance, quality and confidence.

This watch is especially rare, due to being double signed with ‘Patek Philippe & Co’ and ‘Geneve’ just below the 12 and ‘Tiffany & Co’ just above the subsidiary seconds dial at 6.

This watch also has the wonderful and rare addition of a curvex lens which is original to this watch. The curvex lens has an interesting effect on the appearance of the dial as depending on the direction of light, the top half of the dial can sometimes appear darker than the bottom half, or vice versa.

This dial has been previously restored to a very high standard and remains in beautiful condition.

Movement

As can be seen, this movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand 80 years ago, and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as one could ever wish. This movement is in A1 condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +3 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions. This is truly outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.

The movement is all correctly signed ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with the Calibre number 9″90 and the movement serial number 833,793, which dates this watch to 1940.

The Case

This wonderful example is all the more desirable due to having an 18ct yellow gold case. As stated earlier, rectangular Patek Philippe watches are rare, due to low production numbers, which makes these highly sought after today and the 18ct gold case just adds to the desirability. The case-back is curved to nicely follow the contours of the wrist and is beautifully crafted with multiple facets providing a classical look and the beautiful, elegant bezel provides added style to the watch.

Patek Philippe watches have always been conservatively sized and at 20mm across, excluding the crown, this was a typical for the period. However, this watch measures 39mm corner to corner and 46mm, including the beautiful straight lugs, making this a good sized watch for this period.

The condition of the two-piece case is outstanding, indicating the watch has seen only light and careful use. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with its two halves pressing together with a very firm click and there are no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case is all correctly signed and as expected: ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with Swiss 18ct hallmarks and the case serial number 622167.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a new brown alligator strap and plain gold-plated buckle, which we think suits the watch beautifully. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, this watch does include an ‘Extract from the archives of Patek Philippe’, confirming the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct and dating this watch to 1940.

Detailed particulars will be included with the receipt, along with our 12 months’ warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will also be provided at the time of sale with our ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

This watch comes complete with a high quality hardwood presentation box, as shown.

In Conclusion

Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty – to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece. Even though Patek prices continue to rise, we still feel outstanding examples such as this remain grossly undervalued particularly compared to the price of a new Patek Philippe. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage Patek Philippe watches expands, availability will become ever more limited, meaning prices are destined to climb ever higher!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are many well-known stores in West London which are very successful charging between two to three times our prices. We therefore consider our prices to be very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would wish to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or International Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and offers of watches for sale.

We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.