Patek Philippe
Simply the finest watch money can buy….
Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment to perfection mean it takes almost a year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.
Some significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …
– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high-quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch
It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since its first watch was completed in 1839. This is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so precise, detailed and intricate, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce many of the more complicated timepieces.
Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the Patek model ref. 1518 – the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph – and its successor, the Patek ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.
We of course associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but also understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and precision, and total confidence and commitment in everything it does.
Description
In 1932, Patek released its model reference 96 timepiece: The epitome of understated elegance, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is considered by many to be the blueprint for the ultimate dress watch. Inspired by the Bauhaus principle of form follows function, the minimalist design created by David Penney distilled timekeeping down to its most pure essence. There were no superfluous details, no unnecessary flourishes and yet the concept has remained virtually unchanged for almost 90 years. It is no coincidence that vintage Calatravas are still highly sought after by collectors. Today, the design has become so familiar it is difficult to fully appreciate the underlying elements that make the original design so ageless.
The Dial
Please take a good look at the simplicity and classic beauty of this ivory white dial. This classic Calatrava dial is such a timeless design. Simple, symmetrical and perfectly well balanced. The dial carries solid yellow gold ‘baton’ hour indices which are matched by the original solid gold ‘Index’ hands.
The dial carries a subsidiary seconds dial and is correctly signed ‘Patek Philippe’ and Genève’ with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom.
This is the original dial which has been restored to the very highest standards by our dial restorers who are considered to be the best in the UK.
The lens has been replaced with a new original, as part of the restoration.
Movement
Here we have the original Patek Philippe Calibre 27-AM 400, 18 jewels, Geneva Seal hallmarked, Gyromax balance, free-sprung regulator, ‘antimagnetic’ nickel-finished lever movement with a power reserve of 44 hrs.
As can be seen, this movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand, 56 years ago, and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as one could ever wish. This movement is in A1 condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced.
The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +6 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions. This is outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.
The movement is all correctly signed, ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with the Calibre number 27-AM 400 and the movement serial number 732532.
The date of manufacture of this watch is 1964 as provided by Patek Philippe. Please see the Patek ‘Extract from the Archives’ document included in the photographs.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Case
Anyone with more than a passing interest in vintage Patek Philippe will know that a 1960s example, with a case size of 34mm, is rare. This was classed as a large-sized watch for the period, particularly for a Patek Philippe.
The case design is simple and elegant with a thin bezel, adhering to the classic Calatrava design.
The condition of the three-piece case is outstanding, indicating the watch has seen only very light use and proper care. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with all parts pressing together with a very firm click. There are no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye.
Inside the case, the case-back all is signed correctly and as expected: ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’, ‘Swiss’, with Swiss 18ct hallmarks, the case serial number 430286 and the Patek Philippe model reference number 3420.
As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap and Buckle
The watch is fitted with a high-quality black Alligator strap, with matching gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.
The Box and Papers
The Patek Philippe ‘Extract from the Archives’ shown in the photographs, accompanies this watch and shows the date of manufacture of this watch as 1964 and the date of first retail sale as July 3rd 1964.
Our detailed Watch Particulars document will be included with the receipt, along with our 12 months’ warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee, which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
This watch comes complete with a high quality hardwood presentation box as shown.
In Conclusion
Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty – to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece. Even though Patek prices continue to rise, we still feel outstanding examples such as this remain grossly undervalued particularly compared to the price of a new Patek Philippe. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage Patek Philippe watches expands, availability will become ever more limited, meaning prices are destined to climb ever higher!
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are many well-known stores in West London which are very successful charging between two to three times our prices. We therefore consider our prices to be very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and offers of watches for sale.
We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
