Patek Philippe Calatrava Cal.23-300 18ct 1970

Patek Philippe

Simply the finest watch money can buy.

Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment to perfection mean it takes almost a year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.

Some significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …

– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high-quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch

It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since its first watch was completed in 1839. This is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so precise, detailed and intricate, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce many of the more complicated timepieces.

Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the Patek model ref. 1518 – the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph – and its successor, the Patek ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.

We of course associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but also understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and precision, and total confidence and commitment in everything it does.

Description

Here we have a fine example of Patek Philippe’s model reference 3458, Cal.23-300 in 18ct yellow gold and manufactured in 1970. This is a 33mm diameter watch which would have been considered a standard size for a gentleman’s Patek in 1970. The silver ‘starburst’ dial is original and unrestored. This is also co-signed, meaning Patek allowed the famous Swiss watch retailer Gubelin to also sign the dial.

Note: As the date of manufacture of this watch is 1970 this would make the perfect 50th birthday or anniversary present.

The Dial

During the period 1950 – 1970, the largest and most established jewellers in any given city were as famous, if not more famous than the major watch brands themselves – at least in their local markets. The most prestigious of these were occasionally allowed, with the expressed agreement of the watch brand itself, to co-sign the dial as can be seen on this example here. Gubelin remains a famous Swiss watch retailer to this day, established in 1854 in Lucerne, Switzerland and has become one of the largest retailers of high-class watches and jewellery in Switzerland. The company is still owned by the same family, now run by the sixth generation.

This  silver ‘starburst’ dial is in excellent original and unrestored condition. It is also in superb condition for its age. There are just one or two marks, and some very minor pitting and crazing hardly visible to the naked eye. Therefore, due to its excellent condition and to retain the originality and charm, we have left the dial completely alone.

The dial is furnished with solid yellow gold ‘baton’ hour indices which are matched by the original solid gold ‘Dauphine’ hands.  The dial is correctly signed ‘Patek Philippe’ and ‘Geneve’, with the famous retailer’s name ‘Gubelin’ in the bottom half of the dial.

Movement

Here we have the original Patek Philippe Cal.23-300,  18 jewels, Geneva Seal hallmarked, Gyromax balance, free-sprung regulator, ‘amagnetic’ nickel-finished lever movement with a power reserve of 44 hrs.

As can be seen, this movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand 50 years ago and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as one could ever wish. This movement is in A1 condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +6 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions. This is outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.

The movement is all correctly signed, ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with the Calibre number 23-300 and the movement serial number 797940 which dates this watch to 1970.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Case

At 33mm in diameter, excluding the Patek Philippe signed crown, this was a standard size Patek Philippe dress watch for the period.

The condition of the three-piece case is outstanding, indicating the watch has seen only very light use and proper care. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made with all parts pressing together with a very firm click. There are no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case, the case-back all is signed correctly and as expected ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’, ‘Swiss’, with Swiss 18ct hallmarks, the case serial number 2641658 and the Patek Philippe Model Reference number 3458.

As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a high-quality black leather strap, with the original solid 18ct gold buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with the watch, the numbers and markings are all correct, dating this watch to 1970.

Our detailed Watch Particulars document will be included with the receipt, along with our 12 months’ warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee, which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

This watch comes complete with the original vintage Patek Philippe presentation box as shown.

In Conclusion

Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece. Even though Patek prices continue to rise, we still feel outstanding examples such as this remain grossly undervalued particularly compared to the price of a new Patek Philippe. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage Patek Philippe watches expands, availability will become ever more limited, meaning prices are destined to climb ever higher!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are many well-known stores in West London which are very successful charging between two to three times our prices. We therefore consider our prices to be very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and offers of watches for sale.

We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.