Patek Philippe
Simply the finest watch money can buy.
Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment towards perfection means it takes almost year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.
Significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …
– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high-quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch
It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since the first watch was completed in 1839. That is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so detailed, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce some of the more complicated timepieces.
Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the model ref. 1518; the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph and its successor, the model ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the model refs. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.
We, of course, associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but particularly the understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and total confidence and commitment in everything it does.
Description
Alongside the Calatrava, the Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s most recognizable dress watches. The minimalist aesthetics of the oval-shaped case with simple baton hour markers and hands have been in the company’s collection since 1968. The brand saw its Ellipse collection, designed and developed by these now in-house makers, as a work of art more than a timepiece.
Here we have a truly remarkable example of such a highly sought after wristwatch, the ref. 3848 you see here, features a dial and bezel in the classic 1.6 to 1 “golden ratio” that the entire collection was centered upon.
A wonderful 18ct yellow gold, Patek Philippe Ellipse with a beautiful and rare starburst effect 18ct blue gold dial, some proprietary process within the manufacturer’s walls turns an 18ct gold dial blue for a result that’s uniquely stunning in the metal. At 27mm in diameter, excluding the correct Patek Philippe signed crown, this was a typical sized gentleman dress watch in period. However today, given the popularity among ladies to wear gent’s watches, this could equally be considered a suitable watch for a lady.
The Dial
This watch is simply incredible. The original, unrestored and untouched ‘starburst’ effect 18ct gold blue dial looks absolutely stunning against the 18ct yellow gold case. The blue dial Ellipse is the rarer and more sought after version of this watch and it is not difficult to see why. The dial is known as a ‘Sigma’ dial as indicated by the signature at the very bottom of the dial below 6. This shows two ‘σ’ marks either side of ‘Swiss’, meaning the dial, hands and indices are made in 18ct solid gold.
The outstanding blue gold dial that the Patek Philippe Ellipse so famously carries, is not in fact a paint or a coating, but a process that was created by Patek Philippe that produced this incredible and very unique blue gold starburst dial. They developed a system of vacuum plating, in which cobalt and 24K gold are vaporized and then allowed to condense on the 18K gold dial. As you can imagine, this was not an easy process to do however, very much worth the time and effort.
The dial is furnished with its original solid gold ‘stick’ hands and carries the original solid gold ‘baton’ hour indices. So simple, yet so pleasing. Well balanced, beautifully proportioned and simply executed to perfection. In harmony with its watch case, the dial suggests pure class, simple elegance, quality and confidence.
This dial is simply signed ‘Patek Philippe’ with ‘Geneve’ just below the 12, along with ‘σ Swiss σ’ at the very bottom of the dial below 6, as mentioned above.
Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however, we decided in this case due to its exceptional condition, to retain its originality and charm for the many collectors who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with most of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored.
Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.
Movement
The movement within this watch is the original Patek Philippe Cal.215, 18 jewel Geneva Seal hallmarked, Gyromax balance, free-sprung regulator, ‘amagnetic’ nickel-finished lever movement with a power reserve of 44 hrs.
As can be seen, this movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand 60 years ago and remains in wonderful condition, considering its age.
The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +9 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions. This is outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.
The movement is correctly signed, ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with the Calibre number 215 and the movement serial number 1337535 which dates this watch to 1974.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Case
At 27mm in diameter, excluding the Patek Philippe signed crown, this was a standard-sized Patek Philippe dress watch for the period. This watch is simply remarkable for its ‘ellipse’ shape and also carries the ellipse hidden lugs. It is simply one of a kind.
The condition of the two-piece case is outstanding with no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye, indicating the watch has seen only very light use and proper care. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made with all parts pressing together with a very firm click.
Inside the case-back all is signed correctly and as expected; ‘Patek Philippe’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with Swiss 18ct hallmarks, the case serial number 2858512 and the model reference number 3848.
As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap and Buckle
This watch is complete with the original Patek Philippe black leather strap which is in used, but in good condition. This is matched with the original 18ct solid yellow gold Patek Philippe depose buckle. If a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.
The Box and Papers
This watch comes complete with the original Patek Philippe certificate of origin which dates this watch correctly to 1974. The watch also comes complete with the original Patek Philippe presentation box.
Our detailed Watch Particulars document will be included with a receipt, along with our 12 months’ warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee, which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
Payment and Delivery
If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.
As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.
In Conclusion
Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage Patek Philippe 18ct yellow gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece. Even though Patek prices continue to rise, we still feel outstanding examples such as this remain grossly undervalued particularly compared to the price of a new Patek Philippe. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage Patek Philippe watches expands, availability will become ever more limited, meaning prices are destined to climb ever higher!
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.
We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
