Patek Philippe
Simply the finest watch money can buy.
Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment to perfection mean it takes almost a year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.
Some significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …
– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch
It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since its first watch was completed in 1839. This is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so precise, detailed and intricate, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce many of the more complicated timepieces.
Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the Patek model ref. 1518 – the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph – and its successor, the Patek ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the refs. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.
We associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but also understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and precision, and of course, total confidence and commitment in everything it does.
Description
Here we have a rare, 18ct pink gold, model reference 3404 square-cased Patek Philippe with an original, unrestored and untouched dial, from 1966. Relatively few square or rectangular shaped Patek Philippe watches were produced during the 1950s and ’60s so these case shapes are more exclusive. At 30mm in width, including the Patek Philippe signed crown, this is a large-sized gent’s Patek Philippe dress watch for the period. It may not seem so large until one considers the case is 43mm across the diagonal, including the wonderful lugs.
The Dial
Although this watch is almost 60 years old, the dial design is so elegant and timeless it could easily be mistaken for a contemporary watch today.
The dial is fully original, unrestored and untouched, yet remains in remarkable condition. The dial here is ivory-cream in colour, with original gold ‘index’ hands which sweep ‘leaf’ indices that are doubled at 12, and the dial is signed ‘Patek Philippe’ and ‘Geneve’. So simple, yet so pleasing. Nothing more, nothing less, so well balanced, beautifully proportioned and executed to perfection. In harmony with the watch case, the dial speaks of pure class, simple elegance, quality and confidence.
As mentioned above, this dial is in original, unrestored condition. This has been left untouched by our restoration team due to its superb condition. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however we decided in this case to leave it alone, due to its unusually good condition and to retain its originality and charm for those who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original untouched condition.
Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.
Movement
The watch contains the original Patek Philippe Cal.23-300, 18 jewel Geneva Seal hallmarked, Gyromax balance, free-sprung regulator, ‘amagnetic’ nickel-finished lever movement with a power reserve of 44 hrs.
As can be seen, this movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand 50 years ago and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as one could ever wish. This movement is in A1 condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced.
The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds, sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +5 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions. This is outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.
The movement is correctly signed, ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Genève’ and ‘Swiss’, with the Calibre number 23-300 and the movement serial number 781827. This serial number dates the watch to 1966.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Case
As mentioned above, square-cased Patek Philippe watches were rare during the 1950s and ’60s, making this watch extremely rare and highly sought after. The case is beautifully crafted with multiple facets providing a classical look. The case features a broad bezel, sweeping away from the face, providing added drama and style.
Patek Philippe watches have always been conservatively sized and this example measures 30mm across, including the Patek Philippe signed crown and 28mm from top to bottom. However, this is deceptive because as mentioned earlier, it measures 43mm across the diagonal, including the lugs. This is actually quite a large-sized watch for this period.
The condition of the two-piece case is outstanding with no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye, indicating the watch has seen only light and careful use. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with its two halves pressing together with a very firm click.
Inside the case is all correctly signed and as expected: ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’ with Swiss 18ct hallmarks, the case serial number 2602343 and the model reference number 3404.
Please note – as always, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap and Buckle
The watch is fitted with a high quality black leather strap and a solid 18ct gold Patek Philippe buckle. If a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1966.
Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.
This watch comes complete with an original Patek Philippe presentation box.
Payment and Delivery
If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.
As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.
In Conclusion
Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty – to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece. Even though Patek prices continue to rise, we still feel outstanding examples such as this remain grossly undervalued particularly compared to the price of a new Patek Philippe. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage Patek Philippe watches expands, availability will become ever more limited, meaning prices are destined to climb ever higher!
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.
We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions, please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
