Rolex Cal.10½ Hunter 18ct White & Yellow Gold 1928

Rolex

The late 1920s and early ’30s saw Rolex at its most creative and dynamic. Having launched the world’s first truly waterproof and commercially successful (Oyster) watch in 1926, this relatively young company, est. 1906, went on to launch its first automatic waterproof wristwatch, the Oyster Perpetual Chronometer in 1934. These groundbreaking achievements are the foundations on which the company we know today was built. However, even at this early stage of development, this highly ambitious company offered a wide range of models to the market, many of which we seldom see today, due to relatively low production numbers.

Description

The wristwatch we see here is just such an example, which if we take a moment to consider, bears little relationship with the pocket watch from which it descended only fifteen or twenty years earlier and which continued to remain popular right up and until the Second World War.

Though not officially referred to by Rolex as the Tank, there is little doubt this model was produced in response to the success of the Cartier Tank model, released in 1919. This was so called, because the outline of the watch case somewhat resembles the aerial view of the WW1 military tank. Prior to this, all watches were round, reflecting the shape of the movement. However, during the 1920s and ’30s, rectangular cased watches became hugely fashionable, which is why now perhaps, we loosely associate these designs with our Grandfather’s watch.

Finding good examples of any pre-WW2 Rolex has become increasingly hard over the past 10 years, however finding an example of this design is very difficult. Most are in the hands of collectors and seldom come to the market.

The Dial

Many rectangular watches of this period carried dials with ‘art-deco’ influences and this can be seen to a degree, in the design of the numerals. The wonderful black Breguet standard numerals look perfectly in place against the white dial and are swept by blued steel ‘cathedral’ style hands. Square and rectangular watch dials present certain challenges to dial designers, but here the approach is very simple. The dial is in excellent condition and is correctly signed ‘Rolex’ with ‘Swiss Made’ at the very bottom.

The dial carries an inner black rail track for the seconds along with a perfectly proportioned subsidiary seconds dial at ‘6’, which also contains Breguet style Standard numerals and a blued steel hand.

This dial has been previously restored to a very high standard and remains in tip-top condition.

The Movement

The movement fitted to this watch is the original 10½ Hunter, 15 Jewel Extra Prima movement used in Rolex’s highest quality watches of this period. As may be noted from the photographs, this is the especially high grade ‘Timed to 6 Positions For All Climates’ movement as used in Rolex’s chronometer movements. The movement is in very clean condition having just completed a full overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker. This means it has been completely dismantled to each of its component parts before cleaning and inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Rolex parts, then careful reassembly, adjustments and oiling to Rolex specification, before final calibration and testing.

The movement is now running accurately and within expectations of 30 seconds per day. The timing expected of a Rolex movement of this period is within 1 minute per day, and this is our guarantee. The power reserve when fully wound on this movement is 30 hours. We are therefore confident in offering this watch with a 12-month written warranty*.

The movement is signed ‘Rolex Prima’, ‘Swiss Made’, ‘Timed 6 positions’ and ‘15 Jewels’.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The wonderful 18ct yellow and white gold case measures 28mm across, excluding the correct Rolex nipple crown, and 30mm from top to bottom. This may seem a little small, but it is in fact a very large watch for the period, especially when one considers it is 36mm from lug to lug and 35mm across the diagonal.

When acquiring a rectangular or square watch, especially in gold, it is important to ensure the case shows no wear, no fatigue cracks and no pinholes, particularly around the hinge and corner areas. This type of case is prone to wear and damage in these areas, which is another reason these watches are rare, as cases become beyond repair and restoration. Fortunately, this example has been very well cared for and lightly used, so apart from our usual careful examination and cleaning, the case has required little work apart from some very light hand-polishing. There are no scratches or dings, and no  damage/wear visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case-back is correctly signed ‘R.W.C Ltd’ (Rolex Watch Co Ltd) and also has the 18ct hallmark. Externally, the case-back also carries the Rolex reference numbers 870 and 61883. As can be seen, these numbers are clear and distinct, which is a very strong indication this watch has been very lightly used.

As always, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

A new, high quality black leather strap is fitted along with a plain gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, we will do our best to oblige at no extra charge.

The Box and Papers

Although there is no original paperwork with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating the watch to 1928.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The watch comes complete with a Rolex presentation box, as shown in the images.

In Conclusion

We love to find, restore and make available, fine vintage gold Rolex watches of this rarity, quality and condition. This is a superb, highly collectable (and usable) vintage watch from horology’s most famous name, which will provide an excellent financial investment as well as something to treasure and enjoy! It will make an excellent evening wear dress watch as well as a practical, highly accurate and reliable timepiece to use on an everyday basis.

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by UK bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.

If you have any questions please call on Landline 0207 727 7095 or Mobile 07515 949250 or if calling from overseas on Landline +44 207 727 7095 or Mobile +44 7515 949250.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.