Rolex
Founded in 1905 in England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, the company became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving to its new Geneva headquarters in 1919. The success of the wristwatch can be largely attributed to many of Rolex’s innovations which made the company one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These have included its famous “Oyster” case — the world’s first water-resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and its “Perpetual” — the world’s first reliable, self-winding movement for the wristwatch, launched in 1933. These would form the foundation for Rolex’s Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956. Also and equally importantly, Rolex is known for its sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
During the 1930s and ’40s, Rolex also became quite masterful at courting tremendous publicity and excitement through literally being ‘on hand’ during numerous record-breaking events. These were, for example, swimming the English Channel (1927), breaking the world automobile speed record (300mph, 1935), breaking the sound barrier (1947) and climbing Everest for the first time in 1953. No matter how well orchestrated these events came to be, we have to admire Rolex for becoming masters of self-promotion and capitalising on every opportunity with simultaneous worldwide marketing campaigns.
Of course, Rolex is now so ubiquitous it is almost its own kind of its currency. A Rolex is the watch you want on your wrist when you’re in a Third World country when revolution breaks out and there’s only one seat on the plane, – and there’s a guy standing there with a machine gun! You give him a Rolex and he’ll give you the seat!
Description
The Rolex Turn-O-Graph was a highly significant step in the development of Rolex. It was Rolex’ first sports watch. The Rolex Ref 6202 was first released in 1953 following the Datejust, in 1945 and just one year before the Submariner in 1954. The Turn-O-Graph was Rolex’ first commercial release of a watch with a rotating bezel. If one takes a look at the earliest examples of each model, it is clear the first Turn-O-Graph was the testing ground for the Submariner, as each looked remarkably similar when first released.
The model ref. 6202 was soon replaced in 1954 by the much-revised model ref. 6309. In effect, this returned the Turn-O-Graph to the Datejust family as a date function and cyclops window were added along with the new engine-turned bezel with markers every five and ten minutes as seen on Turn-O-Graphs ever since. In fact, the 6202 looked very similar to the watch you see here, the model ref 1625 released in 1958, which was produced all the way up and until 1977. This model also introduced the highly successful Calibre 1560 movement which remained in production until 1965.
This single-owner example you see here has a 1013678 case serial number, dating it to 1958. We have previously never seen such an early example as this in gold, and certainly never one so complete.
This watch comes with original papers, including punched chronometer document, service documents and the very rare original Turn-O-Graph box. The serial number makes this one of the very earliest Rolex model reference 1625’s produced. Its dial is original and unrestored and untouched. It has a well-defined case and an original Rolex 18ct Jubilee bracelet. The watch also has its original guarantee and three early Rolex factory service cards. One of these services was in 1972 when the current 18ct Jubilee bracelet was fitted, or replaced, by Rolex.
This watch is in outstanding all-round original condition. Its original Cal.1560 movement is running strongly and accurately having been overhauled and serviced by ourselves.
The Dial
The original unrestored gold dial is typical of the late 1950s Datejust. Applied gold ‘baton’ hour indices are matched by the original ‘Lance’ hands which also remain original and unrestored. These earlier Lance style hands are only found some, mainly pre-1960 watches. They are particularly charming and lovely to see in such wonderful condition. Of course, the perennial Rolex Coronet tops the dial at 12.
The dial is correctly signed ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual’, ‘Datejust’ with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom of the dial.
The dial is in superb condition, considering the age of this watch. Usually, we restore the dials of all the vintage watches you see on our website due to damage caused by sunlight, humidity, dust and pollution. This typically takes the form of fading, staining, spotting, pitting etc., but here the dial is excellent. It only shows a little even spotting and is, in fact, one of the best unrestored Rolex dials we have seen for this age of watch.
Considering the watch overall, we felt it best to leave the dial completely alone and untouched. If however, you would like to buy this watch and have us restore the dial for you, we will be happy to arrange this at our cost price.
Please note; The images we produce and provide are taken with a very high-resolution camera and a high power macro lens. These are some of the largest and highest definition images of vintage watches available on the Internet. This is to be as fair and honest with our customers as possible. However, this is very revealing of things which simply cannot be seen with the naked eye. In fact, it can be more than a little unfair on a vintage watch which in actuality looks truly beautiful, face to face, or on the wrist.
The Watch Movement
The original, high grade “Officially Certified Superlative Chronometer”, 26 Jewel, Calibre 1560 movement is highly regarded for being very accurate, reliable and strong. As can be seen in the photographs, it is in sparkling condition and it is working perfectly following a thorough overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker. This means the movement has been completely disassembled to each of its component parts, cleaned and inspected under high magnification and then rebuilt using only original Rolex parts where required, before testing and careful calibration. The watch has just been re-tested (as it will be prior to delivery) and is running to within +7 seconds per day, which is outstanding for a vintage watch of this age! The movement also has a 48 hour power reserve when fully wound.
This was the first movement to incorporate the instant date change at 12:00 midnight
These movements are strong, accurate and very reliable making the watch appropriate for regular everyday use. This particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing every 2 to 3 years we would fully expect this watch to run very happily for many more decades to come! We are therefore pleased to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement* and servicing in the future. Signed ‘MONTRES ROLEX SA GENEVA’ and ‘TWENTY SIX JEWELS’, ‘ADJUSTED to FIVE POSITIONS’, the movement carries the movement reference number D195130 and the calibre number 1560.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Watch Case
The 18ct yellow gold case measures 36mm, excluding the Rolex Oyster screw-down crown. The case has been carefully inspected inside and out and then very gently cleaned and lightly hand-polishing to remove any tarnishing. Even though this is an early example, very little of the definition has been lost and all the lines, including on the bezel, remain clear. It is therefore in superb condition with very few scratches, dings or similar marks visible to the naked eye.
The watch carries the Turn-O-Graph bezel which is very well defined, with very few marks visible to the naked eye.
The rotating bezel was designed so that the watch can be used as a simple chronograph. Rather than setting the seconds hand to zero and starting it to time and event, the bezel can simply be rotated so that zero lines up with the second’s hand as it rotates, and you may then time an event in seconds by reading the elapsed seconds on the bezel. Similarly one may time an event in minutes by aligning zero on the bezel with the minutes hand.
As can be seen, the bezel remains in excellent condition and is free from any marks, which is unusual as the bezel is the most prone part of the watch case and most easily damaged through nicks and scratches.
The screw-down case-back is of full-thickness, having never been inscribed. The inside of the case-back carries the Rolex model number 1625 with 18ct Swiss Geneva hallmarks and is signed ‘Montres Rolex SA Geneva Switzerland’. Very importantly, the case also carries its clearly defined serial number, 1013678, between the lugs at ‘6’, along with the Rolex model reference number 1625, (again) at ’12’. The case serial number confirms the date of manufacture of the watch, which is 1958 making this one of the very first of the model reference 1625 production.
Please note, although the waterproof seals have been replaced and this watch was originally specified as waterproof when new, this has not been tested and it is not guaranteed.
As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Bracelet
The 18ct yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet is original to this watch and is of full size, complete with its original 16 links plus Rolex adjustable clasp. The bracelet has been very lightly used with minimal stretch and is free from any marks or damage visible to the naked eye. It is dated ’72 which coincides with one of the dates shown in one of the factory service booklets leading us to believe this was replaced by Rolex during the service.
The Box and Papers
The watch comes complete with its original documents verifying the numbers and markings are correct for this watch and dating its manufacture to 1958.
The watch comes complete with an incredible amount of original paperwork as shown. This includes the original punched chronometer certificate showing the watch serial number, along with the original guarantee booklet and three early Rolex factory service documents.
Our detailed ‘Particulars’ document will be included in the sale, along with our detailed receipt and 12 months warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
The original Rolex Turn-O-Graph presentation box unique to this model and shown in the photographs is included with this watch.
In Conclusion
To summarise, this is an incredibly rare Rolex with an incredible amount in its favour! It will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something to wear, treasure and enjoy! It will make the perfect evening wear dress watch as well as a practical, highly accurate and reliable timepiece to use on an everyday basis. Although this is one of our more expensive watches, its quality will be remembered for long after its purchase price will be forgotten.
Vintage gold Rolex ‘Datejust’ watches are highly collectable and the rarity of this watch means the value will always remain strong, meaning this watch will also make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. Even though vintage Rolex prices have risen strongly in recent years, we feel high-quality fine examples such as this still remain undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage watches expands, availability will become more limited, so prices are surely destined to climb ever higher.
A word about our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these for sale at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach, inevitably, means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are a number of well-known stores in West London which are very successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and if you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.
We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Fully Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions, we welcome your call on: 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on: +44 207 727 7095.
We are ready and available and awaiting your call! We will be happy to answer any questions and offer advice about this or any of our watches listed for sale. If you would like some general advice regarding any aspect of vintage watches, including buying, selling, or collecting vintage watches, we will also be happy to hear from you.
Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
