Rolex
Founded in 1905 in England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, the company became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving to its new Geneva headquarters in 1919. The success of the wristwatch can be largely attributed to many of Rolex’s innovations which made the company one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These have included its famous “Oyster” case — the world’s first water-resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and its “Perpetual” — the world’s first reliable, self-winding movement for the wristwatch, launched in 1933. These would form the foundation for Rolex’s Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956. Also and equally importantly, Rolex is known for its sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
During the 1930s and ’40s, Rolex also became quite masterful at courting tremendous publicity and excitement through literally being ‘on hand’ during numerous record-breaking events. These were, for example, swimming the English Channel (1927), breaking the world automobile speed record (300mph, 1935), breaking the sound barrier (1947) and climbing Everest for the first time in 1953. No matter how well orchestrated these events came to be, we have to admire Rolex for becoming masters of self-promotion and capitalising on every opportunity with simultaneous worldwide marketing campaigns.
Of course, Rolex is now so ubiquitous it is almost its own kind of its currency. A Rolex is the watch you want on your wrist when you’re in a Third World country when revolution breaks out and there’s only one seat on the plane, and there’s a guy standing there with a machine gun! You give him the Rolex, and he’ll give you the seat!
Description
The Rolex ‘Day Date’ has been Rolex’s range-topping, gentleman’s dress watch for over 60 years! First released in 1956, the reference 1803 soon became one of the most desirable “luxury” watches to own at the time.
The Rolex ‘Day-Date’, is also referred to as the President or President’s watch, after a gift of 150,000th Officially Certified Rolex Chronometer was accepted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower. And of course, in 1952 Eisenhower won the presidential race, becoming the 34th president of the United States. A famous image shows Eisenhower wearing his Rolex while waving on his way to his inauguration in 1953. This was, of course, a master-stroke of marketing by Rolex who would later claim in successive advertising campaigns that the Rolex Day-Date was ‘the watch worn by Presidents everywhere’. Which later, of course, became true.
Incidentally, Winston Churchill also wore a Rolex after he accepted his gift of the 100,000th Officially Certified Rolex Chronometer a few years earlier in 1947.
When the Day-Date was unveiled by Rolex in 1956, the watch immediately broke two records. It was the first watch to display the date, as well as the day, in its entirety and of course, it was, therefore, the first waterproof watch to display the date, as well as the day, in its entirety.
Here we have a beautiful, very early example Rolex Model Reference 1803, with the Cal.1555, 25 Jewel movement from 1958. The sunburst dial and wonderful early ‘Lance’ hands have been superbly restored and look stunning next to the yellow gold case and early fluted bezel. Very early vintage Rolex Day-Dates of this quality and condition are now becoming much rarer and harder to find.
The Dial
The ‘Day Date’ dial is one the most iconic of vintage Rolex dial designs, which in essence carries through to this day.
Here, the gold ‘sunburst’ dial carries ‘pencil’ hour indices paired with original restored ‘Lance’ hands. Lance hands are wonderfully attractive and a sure way to identify an early Rolex Day-Date as only watches prior to 1959 carry these.
The dial carries the Rolex Coronet at 12 and is signed ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual’, ‘Day Date’ with ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’ below and ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom.
The lens has been replaced with a new original, as part of the restoration which of course, carries the trademark cyclops date window.
This is the original dial which has been restored to the very highest standards by the best dial restorers in the UK. Please take a close look at the beauty of the dial and the quality of the restoration.
The Watch Movement
The original, high grade “Officially Certified Superlative Chronometer”, 25 Jewel, Calibre 1555 Day Date movement is highly regarded for being very accurate, reliable and strong. As can be seen in the photographs, it is in sparkling condition and it is working perfectly following a thorough overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker. This means the movement has been completely disassembled to each of its component parts, cleaned and inspected under high magnification and then reassembled using only original Rolex parts where required, before testing and careful calibration. The watch has just been re-tested (as it will be prior to delivery) and is running to within +12 seconds per day, which is excellent for a vintage watch of this age! The movement also has a 48 hour power reserve when fully wound.
These movements are strong, accurate and very reliable making the watch appropriate for regular everyday use. This particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing every 2 to 3 years, we would fully expect this watch to run very happily for many more decades to come! We are therefore pleased to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement* and servicing in the future. Signed ‘MONTRES ROLEX SA GENEVA’ and ‘TWENTY FIVE JEWELS’, ‘ADJUSTED 5 POSITIONS AND TEMPERATURE’, the movement carries the movement reference number DD1184 and the calibre number 1555.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Watch Case
The 18ct yellow gold case measures 36mm, excluding the Rolex Oyster screw-down crown. The case has been carefully inspected inside and out and then restored to ‘as new’ condition by very gentle cleaning and hand-polishing by our professional watch case restorer. Even though this is an early example, no definition has been lost as all the lines, including the bezel, remain well defined. It is in superb condition with no scratches, dings or similar marks visible to the naked eye.
This watch is also complete with its early shallow fluted bezel, which is much easier on the eye and has more subtle flutes than the later, more heavily fluted bezels. This gives the watch a more refined appearance and defines this watch as a 1950s Day-Date. As can be seen, the bezel remains in excellent condition and is free from any marks, which is unusual, as the bezel is the most prone part of the watch case and most easily damaged through nicks and scratches.
The screw-down case-back is of full-thickness, having never been inscribed. The inside of the case-back carries the Rolex model number 1803 with 18ct Swiss Geneva hallmarks and is signed ‘Montres Rolex SA Geneva Switzerland’. Very importantly, the case also carries its clearly defined serial number, 868318, between the lugs at ‘6’, along with the Rolex model reference number 1803, (again) at ’12’. The case serial number confirms the date of manufacture of the watch, which is 1958.
Please note, although the waterproof seals have been replaced and this watch was originally specified as waterproof when new, this has not been tested and it is not guaranteed.
As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap & Buckle
A new, black genuine lizard strap has been fitted along with a gold-plated Rolex buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin and can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of 20mm straps.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, all the numbers and markings on the watch are correct, dating the watch to 1958.
Our detailed ‘Particulars’ document will be included in the sale, along with our detailed receipt and 12 months warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
The matching Rolex Oyster Inner and Outer presentation boxes shown in the photographs will be included with this watch.
In Conclusion
To summarise, this is an iconic, top quality, and highly practical vintage watch from horology’s most famous name. It will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something to wear, treasure and enjoy and will also make the perfect evening wear dress watch as well as a practical, highly accurate and reliable timepiece to use on an everyday basis. Although this is one of our more expensive watches, its quality will be remembered for long after its purchase price will be forgotten.
Vintage gold Rolex ‘Day-Date’ watches are highly collectable and the rarity of this watch means the value will always remain strong, meaning this watch will also make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. Even though vintage Rolex prices have risen strongly in recent years, we feel high-quality fine examples such as this still remain undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage watches expands, availability will become more limited, so prices are surely destined to climb ever higher.
A word about our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these for sale at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach, inevitably, means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are a number of well-known stores in West London which are very successful, charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and if you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.
We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Fully Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions, we welcome your call on: 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on: +44 207 727 7095.
We are ready and available and awaiting your call! We will be happy to answer any questions and offer advice about this or any of our watches listed for sale. If you would like some general advice regarding any aspect of vintage watches, including buying, selling, or collecting vintage watches, we will also be happy to hear from you.
Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
