Rolex Oyster Cushion 9ct Pink Gold 1926 1st Edition

Why This Watch Is Important  – The First Generation Rolex Oyster Waterproof Watch!

“Rolex did something truly astonishing in 1927: it released a genuinely waterproof wristwatch that, unlike earlier efforts from other firms, neither looked, or felt unusual and could be worn on a daily basis. The seasoned Rolex enthusiast may well recognise the model above as an early example of that historic game-changer: a first generation Rolex Oyster.”  –  So begins an excellent article entitled: The watch that changed everything: the 90th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster. The article is written by James Dowling, the recognised authority on vintage Rolex and author which may be read here.

The design of the first Rolex Oyster watch case was nothing short of revolutionary. The construction of the Oyster case was quite complicated and very expensive to produce. The case is composed of four main parts: the main case with the lugs attached to it, a central ring and separate screw-down bezel and screw-down case-back. The movement and dial are held in a separate central ring with external threads at either end, which is secured to the main case by the bezel on one side and the case-back on the other. Two soft metal seals were also used, as shown in the diagram. The screw-down crown comprises of a further three parts.

The first four Rolex Oysters were actually released in 1926 in an octagonal and a cushion-shaped case, 28mm for ladies and 32mm for men. Whilst waterproof, the Rolex Oyster at this time was not considered a dive watch as recreational diving did not exist at the time and military diving was still in its infancy. It was sold as giving peace of mind, not as an invitation to adventure under the sea – and its design reflected this.  The soft curves of the cushion Art Deco angles were something to be admired from across the dinner table, not on the back of a boat.

Description

A beautifully previously restored rare 1st Edition Rolex ‘Cushion’ watch from 1926 in 9ct pink gold, making this even more unique. The case is in superb condition and measures 32mm x 32mm, or 37mm corner to corner. These watches were very popular during the 1930s and were a forerunner to the Rolex Precision. They are however becoming harder to find these days, particularly in such wonderful condition as this.

The Dial

The art deco previously restored white dial is in wonderful condition as are the beautiful ‘Cathedral’ hands, making the dial very easy to read. These are original and are an outstanding feature of this watch. The dial also carries attractive bold standard Arabic numerals, framed by an outer minutes track, all perfectly proportioned with a subsidiary seconds dial at 6, which has a blued steel hand.

The dial is correctly signed ‘Rolex Oyster’ curved perfectly around the top of the subsidiary seconds dial with ‘Swiss Made’ below.

This dial has been previously restored to a very high standard and remains in wonderful condition.

The Movement

The original movement here is referred to as a Rolex Rebberg movement and it was this movement which helped to establish Rolex and make the company famous. It was made by the Swiss Aegler company, with whom Rolex formed a partnership. Rebberg is a Swiss district where the factory that produced these movements was located. The movement is a 15 Jewel, 11 Ligne, meaning this is the smaller-sized Rolex Rebburg movement.

This movement is fully signed, with ‘Rolex, 15 Rubies, Swiss Made’ as seen on the winding wheels. The Rebberg was available in two grades, the best of these, as found here, has 15 jewels as opposed to the standard 7.  As can be seen, the movement is in incredibly clean and unmolested condition indicating it has been very well looked after.

As part of the restoration of this watch, the movement has been overhauled and serviced by our vintage specialist watchmaker. This involves dismantling the watch to all its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only original parts before careful reassembly and adjustment.

Please note – Rolex watches of this period are reliable and accurate by the standards of their day. However, they do need to be treated with some care so while perfectly suited for occasional use, we would not recommend this watch for everyday wear.

*Please note our 12 months warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Case

The beautiful 9ct pink gold case is in superb condition, with no scratches or dings or marks visible to the naked eye. This watch also has an incredible serrated bezel which completes the look of this watch perfectly It is of a large size, compared with typical case sizes of the day, and measures 32mm in width excluding the crown, 32mm in height excluding the lugs, 37mm diagonal across the case and 39mm including the lugs.

The case-back is of full thickness and has never been inscribed. It is completely blemish-free with no scratches dings or other marks visible to the naked eye. Also of note is the watch case, which is crisp with clearly defined lugs.

Inside the case is signed ‘RWC Ltd’ for Rolex Watch Co Limited and also ‘20 World’s Records Great Britain Patents’. It also carries  UK 9ct hallmarks and the Rolex model reference 26477.

As ever, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

A new very high quality, matching brown lizard strap is fitted along with a Rolex gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of straps here.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with the watch, the numbers and markings are all correct, dating this watch to c1926.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The watch comes complete with a Rolex presentation box, as shown in the photographs.

If you would like to pay by bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no quibble sale or return policy.