Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref.1601 14ct 1955

Rolex

Founded in 1905 in England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, the company became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving to its new Geneva headquarters in 1919. The success of the wristwatch can be largely attributed to many of Rolex’s innovations which made the company one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These have included its famous “Oyster” case — the world’s first water-resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and its “Perpetual” — the world’s first reliable, self-winding movement for the wristwatch, launched in 1933. These would form the foundation for Rolex’s Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956. Also and equally importantly, Rolex is known for its sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

Description

Launched in 1945, the Rolex Datejust broke new ground by being the world’s first automatic wristwatch with a date function. At the time, the fact that this watch was also waterproof and accurate and reliable enough to be Chronometer rated, was nothing short of sensational!

The Datejust was also one of the first popular watches to possess a central seconds hand, moving away from the more usual subsidiary seconds (small seconds dial) of the time. It was launched in the very large size for the time, at 36mm in diameter, excluding the Rolex screw-down crown. This classic design soon became an icon of style and quality, remaining in continuous production and continuous development, but changing little in design in over 70 years!

The Rolex Day-Date joined the Datejust in 1956 and both have remained Rolex’s range-topping gentlemen’s dress watches ever since. However, early Rolex Datejusts are rarer and more sought after and therefore command higher prices than the Day-Date. Incidentally, the ‘just’ in Datejust, stands for “just in time”, referring to the way the movement advances the date, exactly at midnight without any delay.

Here we have a highly attractive Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 14ct yellow gold from 1955. This Rolex model reference 1601 has the most beautifully elegant, 1950s ‘sunburst’ champagne dial with original ‘lance’ hands, pairing perfectly with the ‘baton’ hour indices and the watch case also carries the highly sought after fluted bezel which remains in absolutely incredible condition. The Rolex Calibre 1560, 26 Jewel Chronometer grade movement is superbly accurate and reliable, even by current day standards. This has been overhauled and serviced and is in sparkling condition.

The Dial

In our view, this is one of the most beautiful Rolex dials. Sunburst gold, with lance’ hands and matching ‘baton’ hour indices, it is just the right balance of beauty, purity, style and elegance. The light shines across this dial wonderfully and shows the true burst of the gold, as we have tried to demonstrate in the accompanying images. This dial also has the perfect addition of the cyclops date window at 3.

If you have looked at a number of vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejusts, you will have probably noticed, very rarely are two the same. This dial carries the Rolex Coronet at 12 and is signed ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust’ with ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’ just above the 6 and ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom.

This dial has been previously restored to a very high standard yet remains in outstanding condition.

The Movement

The watch carries its original, very high grade ‘Superlative Chronometer’ Calibre 1560, 26 jewel automatic movement which is in sparkling clean condition. The movement has been completely overhauled and serviced which involves fully dismantling, ultrasonic cleaning, inspection under high magnification and replacement new original Rolex parts where required. Then careful reassembly and oiling ready for testing and calibration. The watch is therefore now running perfectly, having been calibrated and timed within +9 seconds per day. This is truly outstanding for any watch of this age and has been confirmed by our electronic timegrapher, making it now ready for many more years of faithful service.

The movement is all correctly signed ‘Montres Rolex SA Geneva Swiss’, and ‘Twenty Six Jewels’ with the Calibre number 1560 and the reference number D64454. These movements are very strong, very accurate and very reliable making this watch particularly suited to everyday use should you so wish. This particular movement is in superb A1 condition and with regular servicing, say every 4 years, we would fully expect this watch to run very happily for many more decades to come. We are therefore pleased to offer 12 months warranty on this watch movement*.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The outstanding 14ct yellow gold case measures a large 36mm, excluding the Rolex Oyster screw-down crown and carries an incredible fluted bezel. As can be seen, this remains in excellent condition and is free from any marks or damage, which is unusual as the bezel is the most prone part of the watch case and most easily damaged through nicks and scratches.

The case has been carefully inspected inside and out and then restored to ‘as new’ condition by very gentle cleaning and hand-polishing by our professional watch case restorer. Even though this is an early example, no definition has been lost and all the lines, including the bezel, remain well defined. It is therefore in superb condition with no scratches, dings or similar marks visible to the naked eye. Importantly, the screw-down case-back is of full-thickness, having never been inscribed.

The inside of the case-back is signed ‘Montres Rolex SA Geneva Switzerland’ along with the correct 14ct gold hallmarks ‘0.585’ and the model reference 1601. Very importantly, the case also carries its clearly defined serial number, 259912, between the lugs at ‘6’, along with the Rolex model reference number 1601 again at ’12’. The serial number confirms the date of manufacture of the watch, which is 1955.

Please note – although the waterproof seals have been replaced and this watch was originally specified as waterproof when new, this has not been tested and it is not guaranteed. As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

This watch is currently fitted with a green leather strap which is in almost unused condition and this is fitted with a gold-plated Rolex buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of straps if you wish here.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1955.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The Rolex Oyster presentation box shown in the photographs is included in the sale.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.