Universal Geneve Chronograph Cal.285 18ct Pink Gold 1948

Universal Genève

It is often a surprise to people outside the watch community that Universal Genève was once one of the biggest players in the Swiss watch industry. Since its early beginnings in 1894, Universal was always highly respected for being one of a few true Swiss watch ‘Manufacturers’, meaning ‘in-house’, producing complete watches with in-house movements. The company continued throughout the 20th century to deliver numerous important ‘firsts’ in watchmaking. Along with Audemars Piguet, Girard Perregaux, Patek Philippe and Rolex, the company also became world renowned for its innovation, craftsmanship and quality. This is impressive in itself, but when one considers the company produced mainly advanced chronograph movements and other ‘complications’, this makes Universal almost unique.

Some Universal firsts include:-  It was the first company to produce a wrist-worn chronograph in 1917, when the notion of a timepiece worn on a wrist was still a novelty among gentlemen of a certain standing. In 1925 the company submitted some of the first patents for the self-winding watch, called the Auto Rem. In 1934: The creation of the double push-button Compur chronograph wristwatch, which was the first movement equipped with two column wheels and in 1944, the company presented the Tri-Compax. an hour-counter chronograph, with triple-date calendar and moon-phase display, which went on to become one of watchmaking’s greatest 20th-century achievements.

During the 1950s, Universal also became famous for its ‘Polerouter’, which was one of the first great designs created by the Swiss-born watch genius, Gerald Genta, at the tender age of 23. Genta later went on to huge success, working with most of the big names in the Swiss watch industry, including Omega, Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.

The Polerouter family of watches was launched in 1954 to coincide with the first commercial flights from Europe to the US over the North Pole. SAS’s (Scandinavian Airlines Systems) direct flights to New York and Los Angeles were big news and marked huge advance for the aviation industry.

Description

The incredible example of the Universal Geneve Chronograph you see here is simply stunning and has been previously restored to a very high standard. This watch carries the super high grade calibre 285 chronograph movement along with a rare, large 36mm, 18ct pink gold case which is also, in outstanding condition.

The Dial

The dial is beautifully previously restored, and in terms of condition, it is one of the very best we have seen on this model. In terms of design, it is beautifully symmetrical and well-balanced, and proportioned. The dial itself, in silver, contrasts wonderfully with the pink gold case and original  blued steel ‘leaf’ hands and ‘arrowhead’ hour indices.

The dial may initially look quite complicated, but this is because it conveys a great deal of information. In actual fact, it successfully conveys a lot of information in a very simple manner once you become familiar with the layout. The dial carries the classic double register design, to which most of the top watch houses adhere. We are great admirers of this dial design as it is symmetrical, neat and attractive, yet it manages to convey so much!

The dial you see at 3, indicates the elapsed time while the chronograph function is running – in minutes up to thirty minutes and the dial at 9 indicates the constant running seconds, irrespective of the operation of the chronograph.

The dial carries a black outer tachymeter scale and a black seconds scale divided into fifths of a second. The tachymeter scale measures speed based on time travelled over a fixed distance, i.e. as a rangefinder – typically in a military application; especially naval gunnery and anti-aircraft artillery – or to measure how far away a storm is, by using the difference in time between the arrival of a flash of light and its associated sound.

It is  simply signed with the correct period Universal Geneve signature at the very top of the dial below 12.

This dial has been previously restored to a very high standard yet remains in remarkable condition.

The Movement

The Caliber 285 movement is highly regarded for its precision and reliability. It features a chronograph function, allowing the watch to measure elapsed time with the use of additional pushers and subdials on the watch face. The calibre 285 chronograph movement you see here is in sparkling condition and has just been freshly serviced.

The movement has been thoroughly overhauled and serviced by our watchmaker. This means fully dismantling the watch and movement, ultrasonic cleaning of all parts, close inspection of the critical surfaces under high magnification and replacement as required only with genuine original parts, then careful reassembly and oiling, using all the correct lubricants to manufacturer’s specification, before final testing and careful calibration. This watch is therefore now running perfectly having been calibrated, tested and timed at +11 seconds per day! Please note, this timing is outstanding for any watch of this age and one of the best results we have seen this year and the power reserve is also excellent at 46 hours when fully wound.

The movement is signed ‘Universal Geneve’ and ‘Seventeen 17 Jewels’ with the Calibre No. 285 and ‘Swiss’ aong with the movement serial number 258608.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The high quality original Universal Swiss made, 18ct pink gold case is of a sleek design with a thin bezel, sweeping lugs and a strong, press fit case-back. The case measures 34mm, not including the original unsigned Universal crown.

The case-back is of full thickness and has never been engraved. Cleaned, carefully inspected and lightly hand-polished by our case-maker, it shows every sign it has been lightly used and well cared for and has no scratches, dings or other marks visible to the naked eye.

The inside of the case-back is all correctly signed ‘Universal Genève’ and ‘Swiss’ with the Universal brand and along with 18ct hallmarks and the serial numbers 258608 & 136698.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

A high-quality brown leather strap is fitted with a plain gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown burgundy and black straps in stock, in plain, padded leather, alligator, crocodile or lizard skin.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1948.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

This watch comes complete with a high quality hardwood presentation box as shown.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.