Universal Genève
It is a big surprise to most people outside the watch community that Universal Genève was once one of the biggest players in the watch industry. Since its early beginnings in 1894, Universal has been highly respected for producing complete watches with in-house movements, which is most unusual because many bought in parts and complete movements. Throughout most of the 20th century, Universal Genève delivered many important ‘firsts’ in watchmaking. Along with neighbours Audemars Piguet, Girard Perregaux, Patek Philippe and Rolex, Universal is world renown, not only for its innovation, craftsmanship and quality, but for its true ‘Swiss ‘manufacture’ status. This is impressive in itself, but when one considers the company mainly produced advanced chronograph movements, this makes Universal almost unique.
Some Universal Genève firsts include: The first wrist-worn chronograph in 1917, when the notion of a timepiece worn on a wrist was still a novelty amongst gentlemen of a certain standing. In 1925 it submitted some of the first patents for the self-winding watch, called the Auto Rem. In 1934, the creation of the double push-button Compur chronograph wristwatch, which was the first movement equipped with two column wheels and in 1944, the company presented the Tri-Compax. an hour-counter chronograph, with triple-date calendar and moon-phase display, which went on to become one of watchmaking’s greatest 20th-century commercial successes.
Universal also became famous in the latter half of the century for its ‘Polerouter’. Initially created for Scandinavian Air Services, this watch was created by the famous watch designer Gerald Genta and was worn by airline pilots making flights to California via the Arctic Circle for the first time. The Polerouter Cal.215 micro-rotor movement was another first, taking up much less space than an external rotor. This design has since been adopted by many high-end manufacturers such as Patek Philippe and Lange & Söhne.
Description
Universal is sometimes referred to as the poor man’s Patek Philippe, such is the quality of its movements.
This watch is some what of a mystery to us. Having thoroughly researched it we have found other examples, however, the movement and the case being unsigned does leave some debate as to the origin of this watch.
The Dial
The dial you see here is stunning with two sub-dials and framed with a minute dash marker and a wonderful red centre hand. Simple yet beautiful. This outstanding, previously restored white dial is very simple and elegant and carries an hour sub-dial at the top just below 12 and a subsidiary seconds dial at the bottom, just above 6, both matched with a single gilt ‘stick’ hand and a gold coloured outer minute dash marker. Simple and incredibly pleasing. The name ‘regulateur’ means to have the hours, minutes and seconds all on different parts of the dial and this dial is a beautiful example.
The dial is signed ‘Universal Genève’ in the top hour sub-dial along with ‘antimagnetic’ on the right hand side of the dial and ‘ancre 25 rubies’ on the left.
This dial has been previously restored to a very high standard, yet remains in outstanding condition.
The Movement
The movement fitted to the watch is a high grade 15 Jewel hand-wound movement which has been fully serviced and is running beautifully.
The movement is in very clean condition having just completed a full overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker. This means it has been completely dismantled to each of its component parts before cleaning and inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Rolex parts, then careful reassembly, adjustment and oiling to Rolex specification, before final calibration and testing. The movement is now running accurately within +11 seconds per day. We are therefore confident in offering this watch with a 12-month written warranty*.
The movement is simply signed ‘Swiss Made’ along with ’15 Jewels’.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.
The Case
The totally original, wonderful 18ct yellow gold case measures 34mm in diameter, excluding the correct signed crown. The case is of a three-piece design with a press-fit case-back and carries attractive straight lugs. It is solid, elegant and of obvious very high quality.
The press-fit case-back is of full thickness and has never been engraved. The case has been cleaned, carefully inspected, and lightly hand-polished by our case-maker and shows no scratches, dings or other marks visible to the naked eye.
The exterior of the case back is simply signed ‘Swiss Made’.
Please note – as ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Strap and Buckle
The watch is fitted with a high quality, rather unique Universal Genève brown leather strap which has 5 possible adjustments. We feel suits the watch perfectly, however, if a different colour or different style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to provide your choice, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin and can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of straps if you wish here.
Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1962.
Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.
The high quality black presentation box shown in the photographs is included.
Payment and Delivery
If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.
As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.
In Conclusion
A unique and rare example of a fascinating timepiece which will undoubtedly make an excellent financial investment, as well as be something wonderful to wear, treasure and enjoy! It would make a practical watch for regular or occasional use, as you wish and if it continues to be well cared for and regularly serviced, it will provide dependable service for many decades to come.
This watch carries a great deal more style, individuality and panache than a new watch and to buy the same quality today would be difficult, at 4 or 5 times the price.
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.
We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
