Vacheron Constantin
One of the widely recognised ‘Holy Trinity’ of Swiss watchmaking along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin is also the world’s oldest ‘Watch Manufacturer’, and as such, it has remained in continuous operation since 1755. More than this, Vacheron Constantin is the founding father of a spirit of technical excellence which it has made an art form. This is known as ‘Haute Horlogerie’ at which Vacheron Constantin has been in the vanguard for over 260 years. This tradition defines the ‘Manufacture’, evident in the finest quality execution, reflected in a finish which goes far beyond the demands of the ‘Poinçon de Genève’.
Created in 1886, the ‘Seal of the State of Geneva’ is the highest accolade, reserved for only the very finest quality watchmaking. Vacheron Constantin was the first watchmaker to be allowed to use this hallmark of excellence on its movements.
Vacheron Constantin was also the first watch company to manufacture movements with interchangeable parts, beginning in 1839. The manufacturer is known for their highly complicated masterpieces, including the King Farouk Grand Complication made in 1935 and the Tour de l’Ile which was the most complicated serially produced wristwatch when introduced in 2005. Then followed the 57260 — the world’s most complicated watch — made in 2015.
For the well-heeled and the collector, vintage Vacheron & Constantin offer a degree of exclusivity which even Patek Philippe can not. During the 1940s and through to the late 1960s, Vacheron Constantin only ever produced a maximum of 24 examples of each reference in any one configuration. This means that while it produced a variety of dial and case combinations and colours and designs, each one was strictly limited in number. For the collector, the fact that these watches exist and are seriously undervalued doesn’t go unnoticed.
Description
Simply outstanding! A rare, rectangular-cased 1940s, 18ct pink gold Vacheron & Constantin dress watch with a beautiful silver Guilloche dial which is completely original, unrestored and untouched and yet still looks incredible. This watch also comes complete on an original 18ct pink gold bracelet and with the original presentation box and papers. The wonderful watch we have here reminds us very much of a Cartier Tank – this being a watch that was released around the same period. Very few ‘waisted’ rectangular cased Vacheron & Constantin watches were produced, making these watches very exclusive. At 36mm across the diagonal, this is a large-sized gentlemens dress watch for the period.
The Dial
In addition to its very fine movements, Vacheron & Constantin is widely renowned for its Guilloche dials. These add depth, decoration and interest to a dial, in the form of a repetitive relief. This is a highly involved technical process, achieved through a repetitive pattern in which the design is created using special machinery and geometric lathes. On close examination, as we have tried to show in the photographs, this is quite simply amazing and highly attractive against the silver background. This looks much better face to face and on the wrist, rather than in the photographs.
The overall dial design here is totally ageless, understated and executed to perfection with applied single solid pink gold ‘arrowhead’ hour indices with standard Arabic numerals at ‘3 – 6 – 9 – 12’ and a perfectly proportioned subsidiary seconds dial at ‘6’. The silver dial provides the perfect contrast between the case, original solid pink gold ‘index’ hands, and dial furnishings. The symmetry and pure class here is matchless and for someone with an eye for classical watch design, totally irresistible. The dial is simply signed ‘Vacheron Constantin’ and ‘Geneve’ with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom.
This watch also features the wonderful addition of a Curvex lens which is original to this watch. Note the single lens professional camera is not the best way of capturing the true beauty of the dial, particularly through a Curvex watch lens. When the dial is viewed in real life, through two eyes rather than the one lens and sensor of the camera, the apparent double image seen in the photos is no longer present and the dial comes to life.
Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however, we decided in this case, due to its exceptional condition, to retain its originality and charm for the many collectors who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored.
The Movement
The Calibre 435 subsidiary seconds movement, along with its sister movement, the P454, are widely regarded as some of the best hand-wound movements ever produced.
The hand-wound Calibre 435/3C, 17 jewel movement here is utterly beautiful. Put at its simplest… it is a work of art, with Fausses Côtes, Geneva Wave embellishment, a lever escapement, monometallic balance with screws adjusted to temperature, self-compensating Breguet hairspring, Superchoc shock-absorber and a swan-neck micrometer regulator, enabling for much finer calibration.
The movement is in superb condition having just completed a full overhaul and service by our vintage Vacheron Constantin specialist watchmaker. It is running perfectly and has been calibrated in 5 positions to run within +24 seconds per day. This is is truly outstanding for any mechanical watch and has been checked and confirmed on our electronic watch timegrapher. This movement also has an excellent power reserve of 44 hours when fully wound.
The movement is signed ‘Vacheron Constantin’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘17 Jewels’ with the Calibre number 435/3C, the movement serial number 485423 and Swiss Geneva hallmarks. The movement serial number dates this watch to 1947.
With care and regular servicing, say every 3 to 4 years, we would fully expect this watch to continue to run very happily for many more decades to come. We are therefore totally confident in offering this watch with our 12 months’ written warranty*.
*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.
Watch Case
This wonderful example is made all the more desirable due to it being in rare 18ct pink gold and for having the outstanding ‘waisted’ case. An interesting feature of this beautiful case is the crown guard which is mirrored at 3 and 9. Also, as stated earlier, rectangular Vacheron & Constantin watches are rare, due to low production numbers, which makes these highly sought after today. All of this just adds to the desirability.
Vacheron & Constantin watches have always been conservatively sized and at 22mm across, excluding the crown, this was a typical size for the period. Although this may appear small, the watch measures 36mm overall and 45mm, including the beautiful straight lugs, actually making this watch quite a large size for the period.
The condition of the two-piece case is outstanding, indicating the watch has seen only light and careful use. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with its two halves pressing together with a very firm click and is in immaculate condition, with no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye.
Inside the case, all is correct and simply signed ‘Vacheron & Constantin’ and ‘Swiss’ with Swiss 18ct hallmarks and the case serial number 328944.
As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Bracelet
The original, integral, heavy Vacheron & Constantin 18ct pink gold bracelet is in close to as new condition and is of its original full length at 19.1cm to 20.3cm. This is adjusted using the three-stage adjustable catch and locked with the double safety lock. The bracelet is in immaculate condition and has simply been cleaned and lightly polished to bring it back to the condition you see here. This watch and bracelet will fit an average to a slightly larger sized wrist, however, it can also be tailored by ourselves, free of charge, following the purchase of the watch.
Box and Papers
This wonderful Vacheron & Constantin also comes complete with the original papers, which shows the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks all correct, dating this watch to 1947.
Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.
This watch comes complete with the original Vacheron & Constantin presentation box, as shown in the photographs.
In Conclusion
Here we have a truly rare and highly sought after vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty – to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment as well as a family heirloom piece.
A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are many well-known stores in West London which are very successful charging between two to three times our prices. We therefore consider our prices to be very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would wish to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or International Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.
Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.
We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.
For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.
Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and offers of watches for sale.
We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.
If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.
Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine vintage gold watches.
Thank you.
Andrew M via feefo 
3rd December 2024 
JLC1891 
